Bogotá: vom Walzer zum Taj Mahal

Bogotá und N-Bogotá, Reiseberichte

Ein Familienausflug nach Bogotá, voller Musik und Sightseeing

Our trip to Bogotá in September 2024, was a very special one. The purpose of the trip was to fulfill the biggest dream of my travel partners (Colombian) father to attend a concert by André Rieu and his orchestra in Bogotá.

Because we live in Curaçao and father Antonio and his wife Alix live in the coastal city of Barranquilla, we flew separately to Bogotá, where we rented an apartment had booked an apartment in the neighborhood Chico Norte. We arrived on Sunday and they on Monday, so we had all the time to settle in the comfortable appartment, with a common roof terrace with cityview. 

Next to the apartment complex is café Culto, a nice place for a good breakfast, fresh juices or a cappuccino with something tasty from the bakery. You can also go there for lunch or dinner.

On Monday, we went to pick up Antonio and Alix at El Dorado airport. With flowers and an André Rieu scarf, we were waiting for the family.  The reunion was priceless!

Antonio couldn’t wait for the day of the concert to arrive! To make most of our time in Bogotá, we planned several outings, such as a shopping day at the outlets on Avenida de las Americas and a visit to the historic center and Monserrate on the day of the concert.

Furthermore, we went on a day trip to Jaime Duque park and the salt cathedral of Zipaquirá, where we wanted to visit the newest extension -the underground museum.

On September 18, the time had finally come. The concert was scheduled to begin at 8 p.m. and the doors opened at 5 p.m., giving us the entire morning and afternoon for our sightseeing trip. We would then still have plenty of time to get ready for the concert and to be at the Movistar Arena at 6 p.m…..But that schedule didn’t work out at all!

Still fresh and fruity, we began our city walk in the morning in La Candelaria. The first stop was Museo Botero.

We are fans of Fernando Botero and had already seen his “oversized” sculptures in Medellín and this (free) museum was also worth seeing. After this we walked through the iconic restaurant La Puerta Falsa, Plaza de Bolívar and the busy Séptima to the Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo, the place where Bogotá was founded in 1538.

The last part was uphill and we made a break to catch our breath at Cacao y Cacao.

Around Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo you can see lots of colorful street art, some more colorful than others.

The objects of the murals range from early indigenous residents to the flora and fauna and social aspects of life in Colombia. You will also find cafes where you can try the traditional drink Chicha, a fermented drink made from corn. Calle del Embudo in particular is a fun and colorful street.

Finally, we decided it was time to order an Uber, which picked us up at 12:30 p.m. at Calle del Embudo and dropped us off at the entrance to Monserrate. What we hadn’t counted on was that there was a mega crowd at Monserrate, probably because the funicular (the little train) was under maintenance and everyone had to go by cable car. Both up and down there was a huge line.

By the way, you can avoid that queue by buying a fastpass ticket of COP81,000/$20 instead of the regular tickets a COP29,500/$7.50, but we found that to be a big difference for 4 people. Moreover, the line didn’t seem to be too bad from outside, but what we couldn’t see was that it was also completely full inside. So if it fits your budget, then such a fast pass ticket is definitely worth it!

When we finally got to the top, the view was amazing.

We had lunch in Santa Clara restaurant, which was serves specialties from the different regions of Colombia. We chose the Posta Negra Cartagenera, tender beef in a sauce of panela (cane sugar), coconut rice and stewed banana. Topped with a glass of Sangria, this was a success.

After dinner we actually wanted to walk around for a while, but the line for the teleférico back was so long that we decided to get in line right away.

At 4:30pm we began to pick up speed and were almost at the cable car. Finally, we were in the cab at 5:15pm and drove -in rush hour- to the hotel, where we arrived at 6pm. At 6:30pm we were picked up and taken to the Movistar Arena, where we finally arrived well ahead of time.

The concert was beyond my expectations. I am not a real Andre Rieu fan myself, but the show was great and Father Antonio’s smiling face priceless!

One of the highlights was the performance of Colombian boy Daniel Sanabria. He stole the show 5 years ago, when during André Rieu’s performance the power went out and he spontaneously started playing on a plastic flute. André Rieu then bought him a real flute, on which he began practicing fanatically. Now he got to perform for the home audience and would continue to do so on the other 3 nights in Bogotá, as a full member of the Johan Strauss Orchestra! Check here the video of Daniel’s performance.

The next day was our last day in Bogotá, before the family returned to Barranquilla. We stayed another week to tour the Quindío region in the Colombian coffee triangle. That’s why we decided to end our last day with a day trip to the Cathedral de Sal in Zipaquirá and Jaime Duque Park, which is 9 kilometers from Zipaquirá.

We had been to Zipaquirá before, but since the new underground museum opened this year, we wanted to go there again. therefore hired a cab driver for the day. We had taken this cab before and the driver had prepared well. In his (comfortable) cab we could hear a concert of André Rieu in Vienna -:) The ride took about 45 minutes and it was a relief to walk in the spacious park, with its beautiful gardens and ample habitats for the animals. The most striking building in the park was a replica of the Taj Mahal from India! After Jaime Duque park, we left for the town of Zipaquirá, where we stopped at the beautiful square.

Zipaquirá seems like a nice town to stay in during a round trip through Colombia. We saw a few hotels in the historic center that looked nice, such as  hotel Camino de la Sal.

We decided to follow our driver’s advice and have lunch at a restaurant near the salt cathedral: Alma Llanera. We did not regret this, because the restaurant was funny to see with all kinds of fun decorations and live music, which quickly set the mood. The food was very good, we had ordered several dishes, from avocado salad, to Aijaco (soup) and grilled meat.

Tip: if you go there for lunch and then to the salt cathedral, you can buy the tickets at the restaurant. With the tickets already in our pocket, we left for the salt cathedral of Zipaquirá. The cathedral was -also the second time- impressive.

After a wonderfully long day full of impressions, it was time to pack our bags for our flight the next day to Armenia in the coffee region. The last night with the family we talked a lot about the special trip and we were invited to visit the family next year in Barranquilla.


Written by Jeanette
Travel period: September 2024

Hier finden Sie weitere Informationen über Bogotá und Umgebung und andere Reiseziele in Kolumbien.

Hier können Sie unsere anderen Reiseberichte über Bogotá lesen . Prüfen Sie hier die Optionen, wenn Sie eine organisierte Tour oder einen privaten Ausflug zur Catedral de Sal in Zipaquirá , Parque Jaime Duque oder Guatavita.

ColombiaMyWay

Chapinero-Tour: Kaffee, Kultur und Tejo

Reiseberichte

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Tour mit einem Einheimischen im trendigen Chapinero, Bogotá

During our previous trips to Bogotá, we had already seen the well-known tourist sights, such as historic center La Candelaria, Cerro Monserrate and the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá. Therefore, during our trip in September 2024, we were looking for something else to do. Our eye fell on the Chapinero hotspots and Coolture tour with a local guide. Chapinero is a centrally located neighborhood in northeastern Bogotá between La Candelaria to the south and the Zona Rosa (Zona T) to the north.

Chapinero Alto is known for its hip vibe and its many creative stores, restaurants and cafes. Vogue magazine even called Chapinero Alto the Williamsburg of Bogotá (a trendy neighborhood in New York).

The starting point of the tour was Almendro Repostería Artesanal, a cafe a 15-minute drive from our hotel in Teusaquillo. On our way to Almendro we drove through Chapinero Central, a busy neighborhood with many stores. It didn’t seem like the best neighborhood, but at one point we went uphill across an intersection and here we saw the busy neighborhood turn into a quiet residential area.

Our Uber dropped us off at the Repostería. We were quite early and waited at a table for guide Angela. In the café we could see right away, that Chapinero Alto is a trendy neighborhood. There were mostly hip, young people here. Given the several laptops, we noticed that Almendro is popular with digital nomads. Angela soon came in and introduced herself. She is a born and raised Rolo (native of Bogotá) who lived in Chapinero Alto for 5 years. She works as an IT designer and owns her own tour company, for which she gives tours in her spare time. In addition to this Chapinero hotspots and Coolture tour, she also does a Chapinero cocktail tour and a hotspots and Coolture tour in Usaquén, where she lives these days. We turned out to be the only two participants on the tour and Angela invited us to choose something delicious from the menu. We chose a cappuccino with a Media Luna (croissant).


Over dinner, Angela explained that Chapinero Alto is a popular place with families and expats. Singles also like living in Chapinero Alto because there are many social things to do and fun places to meet people. From Almendro we walked to the bookstore/publishing house Santo and Seña where we were given a guided tour. In addition to a large collection of Spanish-language books, there was a small collection of English-language books, vinyl records and even cassette tapes!

Angela also showed us a booklet of cartoons about the famous Colombian writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez. The cartoons tell the story of the writer before he became famous. Because Gabriel Garcia Marquez and his family had little financial resources, he had sent only the second (last part) of his first book to an Argentinian publisher. The latter was so enthusiastic, that he sent money to send the first part of the book. And the rest is history!

Boutique Mapa is a beautiful store  selling jewelry, clothing and art by local designers. The unique shoes especially stood out. Varietal was our next stop. This is a well-known café in Bogotá, with several branches. We had our second cup of coffee of the morning on the cozy outdoor terrace.

On the bench in the garden we found Mafalda, a popular Argentinian cartoon character. Mafalda is concerned about world peace and has an innocent but serious attitude toward important problems. She plays an important role in Latin America’s long tradition of political satire.

Metkalu is the local “market,” where many local brands and organic products are sold. We found several interesting products, but because of our (already full) suitcases, we couldn’t buy too much. We bought tea made from cocoa and copoazú, a fruit from the Amazon (family of cocoa). We also couldn’t resist the soursop marmalade.

We really enjoyed walking around Chapinero Alto, with its up and down streets and English architecture.

You will find a mix of modern apartment buildings and old residential houses.

Angela explained that rents in Chapinero Alto have risen significantly in recent years and that many residential houses have been turned into restaurants and stores. The older houses are very spacious and different entrepreneurs can share the spaces with each other to reduce costs.

It is a cozy neighborhood, with an artistic vibe, fun neighborhood stores and a wide selection of restaurants and cafes.

In Chapinero Alto you can eat Japanese and Mexican food and order a real eclair or quiche from a French bakery.

In addition, there are several vegetarian restaurants, like Mesa Salvaje, which is also known for its delicious coffee. If you are vegan or vegetarian, then Angela’s veggie tour in Chapinero might be something for you.

We walked past the HAB Hotel, a boutique hotel located in a beautiful, stylish building. The HAB café is the hotel’s restaurant, which is also popular with locals. If you stay at the HAB hotel, you have more than enough culinary choices anyway, with several restaurants and cafes within walking distance.

For our next and final stop, we walked through Parque de los Hippies to Tejo Turmeque, a walk of about 10 minutes. Parque de los Hippies is -like the Santa Fe neighborhood- a “zona de tolerancia” which means that things that are not allowed elsewhere, such as drugs and prostitution, are tolerated here. By the way, Parque de Hippies is not a real park with greenery, it is more like a square where people gather and teens come to skateboard. In late 2019, Chapinero was the center of anti-government demonstrations. Concerts and other events were held in Parque de los Hippies.

Totally unexpectedly, Angela entered a doorway to Tejo Turmeque, a place we would never have found on our own! The street that Tejo Turmeque is on also had a somewhat “shady” feel to it. According to Angela, it is safe during the day, but not a nice place to walk around late at night. Playing Tejo had been on our wish list for a long time and now we had the chance! We were first given an explanation of the game, where you have to throw steel discs as close as possible to the center of a slab of clay. Then you get the most points.


Here you throw from a distance of 15 meters. If you throw on the paper envelopes filled with gunpowder, a big bang follows and you get extra points.

Of course, that was the thrill of the game! It took some practice, but we managed to hit well a few times.


It is said that the origin of the game lies with the Muisca Indians, who used gold discs during rituals.

Throwing the disc, we thought was a bit like bowling, but more exciting! Tejo’s main “rule” is: The more beer you drink, the better it goes -:)

We kept it to 2 beers, but nevertheless it went quite nicely for the first time! What a great experience to play this game, the three of us had a lot of fun. Next to us were 4 locals playing, which also went quite fanatically. In a larger group this will undoubtedly be fun too, with the competitive element!

The Tejo was the end of the tour and we enjoyed it! It was very nice to get to know a different part of Bogotá with a local, who not only knows the nicest spots, but is also familiar with the history of the neighborhood. Moreover, Angela is an interesting personality with a broad interest which allowed us to talk about all kinds of things, not only about Chapinero and Bogotá, but also about other places in Colombia, Europe and our home base Curaçao. In short: highly recommended if you are in Bogotá and want to do something fun that is not on the traditional tourist route!

Travel Date September 2024
Written by Jeanette

#ColombiaMyWay tips & practical information

  • The tour lasts 3 hours and there are different departure times each day. Departure is from Chapinero Alto
  • Tip: If you want to do the Tejo, you can only do it on tours starting at 2 p.m., Thursday through Saturday. On the other days, the tour ends with a cocktail. When booking, mention explicitly that you want to do the Tejo.
  • An Uber from La Candelaria / Teusaquillo takes about 15min. We came from Teusaquillo and paid COP13,500/$3.50 for the Uber.
  • Drinks and snacks are included, as are 2 beers at the Tejo. We found this more than sufficient, but if you want to order additional (alcoholic) drinks and food, this is at your own expense.
  • Check out here for more information and to make a reservation
  • Want to stay in this trendy neighborhood? Then check here your options for hotels and hostels in Chapinero.

Auf Tour im Los Nevados National Park

Eje Cafetero, Reiseberichte

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Eine Fahrt durch die verschiedenen Ökosysteme des Los Nevados Nationalparks

Während meiner Reise zum Hotel Termales del Ruiz in der Kaffeeregion wollte ich mir die Gelegenheit nicht entgehen lassen, den Nationalpark Los Nevados zu besuchen, die “Heimat” des noch aktiven Vulkans Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima und Nevado del Santa Isabel, dessen Gletscher bestiegen werden kann.

Ich bin zwar sehr abenteuerlustig, aber eine Wanderung zu einem Gletscher ist nicht mein Ding. Ich hätte übrigens auch nicht den Mut, mich auf ein solches (eisiges) Abenteuer einzulassen!

Eine Autofahrt in den Park schien mir daher die perfekte Alternative zu sein, um etwas von dem Park zu sehen. Das Hotel arrangierte für mich einen privaten Ausflug mit Edoardo, einem pensionierten Mitarbeiter des Nationalparks Los Nevados. Für diese vielbeschäftigte Biene ist Stillsitzen keine Option, weshalb er und seine Frau auch ihre eigene Herberge betreiben. Ich erwartete von Edoardo, dass er ein hervorragender Fahrer und Gesprächspartner für die Reise sein würde. Er sprach kein Englisch, so dass ich mein Spanisch während der Fahrt ausreichend üben konnte.

Edoardo holte mich zur vereinbarten Zeit ab und wir fuhren früh zum Brisas-Eingang des Los Nevados Nationalparks, eine 8 km lange Fahrt.

Hier begann eine ziemlich komplizierte Registrierungsprozedur, denn ich musste an 3 verschiedenen Schaltern bezahlen: für das Auto, für den Führer im Park und für die obligatorische Versicherung. Danach wurde mir ein grünes Armband ausgehändigt und nach der gesamten Zahlungsprozedur folgten ein obligatorischer Film und eine Einweisung in den Park.

Diese fand in einem steinkalten Raum statt, so dass ich froh war, als die Autofahrt endlich beginnen konnte! Der Fremdenführer fuhr mit seinem eigenen Auto vor und wir fuhren zusammen mit ein paar anderen Autos – im Nebel – hinter dem Fremdenführer her.

Bei der Einweisung hatte man uns erklärt, dass wir während der 5 km langen Fahrt an mehreren Ökosystemen vorbeikommen würden. Beim ersten Halt Aguaceralesauf 4160 Metern Höhe, sahen wir eine weitere wunderschöne grüne Landschaft.

Danach ging es allmählich bergauf und die Landschaft veränderte sich in die Páramo- und Super-Páramo-Landschaft, die hauptsächlich aus Felsen und Sand besteht. Charakteristisch für den Páramo sind die ungewöhnlichen Frailejones-Bäume, die bis zu 12 Meter hoch werden können.

Bei jedem Halt gab der Ecosistemas-Führer eine leidenschaftliche Erklärung der Flora und Fauna der Gegend. Danach konnten wir ein wenig herumlaufen und Fotos von der wechselnden Vegetation machen, wie hier beim Parador auf 4290 Metern Höhe.

Beim dritten Halt am Valles Lunares -der Name sagt es-, gab es nicht mehr zu sehen als eine Mondlandschaft.

Danach brachen wir zu unserem letzten Halt auf, dem Valle de Tumbasauf 4450 Metern Höhe. Hier erzählte uns der Führer die grausame Geschichte des Ausbruchs des Vulkans Nevado del Ruiz im Jahr 1985. Diese Katastrophe verwüstete die Stadt Armero und kostete mehr als 25.000 Menschen das Leben.

Aufgrund der vulkanischen Aktivität galt während unseres Besuchs der Code Gelb und der Aussichtspunkt am Nevado del Ruiz (5100 Meter) war geschlossen. Die Situation wird u.a. von Kameras genau beobachtet.

Im Valle de Tumbas waren die Spuren der Lavaströme noch deutlich sichtbar. Sehr beeindruckend, hier zu stehen und zu wissen, welche Tragödie sich ereignet hatte -:( Alle in der Gruppe waren einen Moment lang ganz still. Nach dem letzten Halt machte sich die kleine “Karawane” wieder auf den Weg zum Ausgang.

Nach der Autotour fragte Edoardo, ob ich hungrig sei, und das war ich auch! Die Bergluft macht hungrig und allein der Gedanke an eine schöne Schüssel heiße Suppe ließ mir das Wasser im Mund zusammenlaufen. Edoardo erzählte mir, dass seine Frau Sandra Patricia die köstlichsten Gerichte für die Gäste der Herberge und Tagesausflügler, die den Los Nevados Nationalpark besuchen, kocht. Darauf hatte ich Lust, aber zuerst bekam ich eine Tasse Tee mit Cocablättern, die laut Edoardo das perfekte Mittel gegen die Höhenkrankheit sind.

Nicht viel später saß ich hinter einer dampfenden Schüssel mit Suppe. Es folgten schmackhafter Fisch (mein Favorit, Trucha=Forelle) und ein schönes Dessert.

Nach dieser köstlichen Mahlzeit, die weniger als 7 Dollar kostete, führte mich der stolze Edoardo zusammen mit seiner Enkelin durch die Herberge Mirador del Kumanday.

Nach einem “Fotoshooting” war es an der Zeit, zum Hotel Termales del Ruiz zurückzukehren. Da die Enkelin noch nie in diesem Hotel gewesen war, war ich mit einer Führung durch die Thermalbäder an der Reihe. Als Überraschung kaufte ich ihr im Hotel ein paar Pralinen, die sie dankend verschlang.

Als ich Edoardo sechs Monate später wiedertraf, erzählte er mir, dass seine Herberge nun um eine Cabaña mit Blick auf den Vulkan erweitert wurde, die El Leon Dormido (der schlafende Löwe) heißt.

Sind Sie neugierig auf diese abenteuerliche Unterkunft? Besuchen Sie ihre Facebook-Seite von Glamping Leon Dormido.

Geschrieben von: Jeanette
Reisezeitraum: März 2019

#KolumbienMeinWeg Tipps

Informationen (Aktualisiert: August 2023)

  • Der Eingang zu Brisas liegt 1,5-2 Stunden Fahrt von Manizales und 8 km vom Hotel Termales del Ruiz. Es gibt keine öffentlichen Verkehrsmittel zum Park, Sie erreichen ihn auf eigene Faust oder mit privaten Verkehrsmitteln.
  • Täglich geöffnet von 8Uhr-14Uhr. Um 15:30 Uhr müssen alle Besucher den Park verlassen haben.
  • Die Autofahrt dauert 2-3 Stunden, einschließlich der Pausen. Sind Sie anfällig für Höhenkrankheit? Dann fahren Sie mit leicht geöffneten Fenstern, das macht einen Unterschied!
  • Die Führung durch den Park ist obligatorisch. Aus Sicherheitsgründen gilt die Regel, dass mindestens 1 Guide pro 2 Autos den Park betritt.
  • Preise (2023): Parkeintritt COP54.000 p.P., Auto COP8000, Führer COP15000, Versicherung COP5000. Bringen Sie einen Ausweis für die Registrierung mit
  • Die größten Chancen auf gutes Wetter haben Sie in der Trockenzeit von Mitte Dezember bis Ende Februar und im Juli, August
  • Während dieser Fahrt gibt es keinen Zugang zum Nevado del Ruiz. Von diesem Eingang aus können Sie keinen Schnee sehen und Sie können keine Wanderungen oder Trekkingtouren unternehmen. Folgen Sie dem Link für Wanderungen zu den Gletschern im Los Nevados National Park,
  • Möchten Sie mehr über den Park erfahren? Besuchen Sie die Facebook-Seite Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados
  • Bevor Sie eine Reise planen, sollten Sie sich über den aktuellen Status des aktiven Vulkans Nevado del Ruiz informieren. Wenn die Aktivität zunimmt, wird der Park geschlossen.

Film-Tipp
Der beeindruckende Film Armero erzählt die Geschichte von Omaira, die den Vulkanausbruch erlebt und überlebt hat. Die Verfilmung der Katastrophe können Sie auf Netflix sehen (Spanisch, mit englischen Untertiteln). Sehen Sie sich den Trailer hier an.

Hier können Sie über unsere Reise zum Hotel Termales del Ruiz lesen.

Sehen Sie sich unseren Reiseführer Kaffeedreieck für weitere Informationen über die Kaffeeregion in Kolumbien. Wenn Sie von der Kaffeeregion weiter nach Jardín oder Medellín reisen, sehen Sie sich unseren Reiseführer Medellín und Umgebung.

Abseits der Touristenpfade nach Termales del Ruiz

Eje Cafetero, Reiseberichte

Home 9 Kategorie: Reiseberichte

Meine Reise zum einzigen Hotel in der Nähe des Nationalparks Los Nevados

Bei der Planung meiner Reise in die berühmte Kaffeeregion von Kolumbien, der Zona Cafetera / Eje Cafetero (Kaffeedreieck), hatte ich zunächst nicht daran gedacht, das Hotel Termales del Ruiz zu besuchen, ein Hotel auf 3.500 Metern Höhe in der Nähe des noch aktiven Vulkans Nevado del Ruiz.

Mehr dachte ich darüber nach…. eine Tour auf einer Kaffeeplantage zu machen, in einer Kaffeefinca zu übernachten und vor allem viele Tassen des köstlichen “schwarzen Goldes” zu trinken …

Aber als ich ein wenig auf der Website von booking.comstöberte, erregte das Hotel sofort meine Aufmerksamkeit. Das Hotel Termales del Ruiz ist ein ehemaliger Skiort und das einzige Hotel in der Nähe des Nationalparks Los Nevados. Seine Lage in einem Naturschutzgebiet und die 2 Thermalbecken machten das Hotel absolut attraktiv!

Die aufregende Idee, so nahe am aktiven Vulkan Nevado del Ruiz zu übernachten, ließ mich nicht mehr los und als ich las, dass ich vom Hotel aus einen Tagesausflug in den Park buchen konnte, war ich begeistert und buchte 3 Nächte.

Damit war meine Reiseroute im Kaffeedreieck komplett: Flug von Bogotá nach Pereira, weiter zum Hotel Hacienda Combia in Calarcá, danach über Santa Rosa de Cabal zum Hotel Termales del Ruiz und Rückflug über Manizales nach Bogotá.

Nach unserem Besuch in der Anato -Tourismusmesse in Bogotá und ein paar wunderbaren Tagen auf der Kaffeefinca in Calarcá, setzten wir unsere Reise nach Santa Rosa de Cabal fort, dem Ausgangspunkt für die Fahrt nach Termales del Ruiz.

Von Santa Rosa de Cabal aus wollte mein Reisebegleiter zurück nach Curaçao und ich würde alleine weiterreisen. Eine schwere Halsentzündung hätte meine Pläne fast zunichte gemacht, aber nach einer Notfallkonsultation mit dem Angeles al Llamado und ein paar Tage der Erholung in Santa Rosa de Cabalkonnte die (lange) Autofahrt nach Termales del Ruiz beginnen.

Allein die Fahrt dorthin war ein Abenteuer für sich. Von Manizales nach Termales del Ruiz stieg die Straße langsam an und die grüne Landschaft ging in die páramo Landschaft mit den außergewöhnlichen Frailejones Bäumen.

Auf dem Weg dorthin hielten wir an und genossen eine arepa de chocolo und Schokolade caliente. Die heiße Schokolade war besonders willkommen, da es ziemlich kühl geworden war.

Mit einem Zählerstand von 3476 Metern waren wir fast am Ziel.

Es war fast unwirklich, das Hotel in der “Mitte von Nirgendwo” zu sehen. Bis zu diesem Moment war ich in der Kaffeeregion meist an frische grüne Ebenen gewöhnt, aber hier waren wir wirklich in den Bergen.

Nachdem der Fahrer mich am Hotel abgesetzt hatte, ging ich zum Einchecken….brr es war soo kalt! Es gab keine Heizung an der Rezeption und dieses “holländische Karibikmädchen” war froh, ins Zimmer zu gehen und die Heizung aufzudrehen. Sicherlich waren das andere Temperaturen als die 30 Grad auf meiner Insel in der Karibik! Im Zimmer wartete bereits ein Bademantel auf mich und ich wollte sofort ins warme Wasser springen.

Zuerst dachte ich naiverweise, dass ich im Bademantel in die Badewanne gehen könnte, aber das ging wirklich nicht. Es war sooo kalt! Ich drehte mich schnell um, ging zurück ins Zimmer und zog meinen dicken Mantel an. Unten in der Umkleidekabine zog ich mich um. Das Gefühl, meinen kalten Körper in das heiße Bad gleiten zu lassen, war unglaublich. Ein Angestellter des Hotels kam und fragte mich, ob ich etwas trinken wolle und ich fand, dass ein vino caliente (heißer Rotwein) zu dem ganzen Erlebnis passte -:).

Am Abend ließ ich mich vor dem Kamin im Restaurant nieder und dachte bei einem aromático (Kräutertee) über den Tag nach.

Am nächsten Morgen nahm ich an einer Tour durch das Vogelschutzgebiet teil.

Während der Wanderung waren die Kolibris der Star der Show. Es war leicht zu erkennen, dass das Reservat ein Hot Spot für Vogelbeobachter und Fotografen ist, denn ein Fotograf hatte ein noch größeres Objektiv als der andere! Kein Wunder, wenn man bedenkt, dass es in dem Naturreservat über 160 Vogelarten gibt.

Mit meinem Smartphone gelang es mir auch, die Kolibris zu fotografieren, aber mir gefiel es besser, das Reservat selbst zu erkunden – ohne die Fotoshootings – und das tat ich dann auch am Nachmittag.

Es gab Pfade, die an Aussichtspunkten und kleinen Wasserfällen vorbeiführten, und es gab ein schönes Plätzchen zum Chillen mit Aussicht.

Der erste Tag in Termales del Ruiz war mehr als erfolgreich!

Auf zum nächsten Tag, mit einem neuen Abenteuer, der privaten Tour zum Los Nevados Nationalpark.

Geschrieben von: Jeanette
Reisezeitraum: März 2019

Tipps zu #Kolumbien (Aktualisiert: Juni 2024)

  • Prüfen Sie hier für mehr Informationen über das Hotel Termales del Ruiz
  • Wir empfehlen Ihnen, vor Ihrer Reise in einem Ort zu übernachten, der bereits etwas höher liegt, zwischen 1500 und 2500 Metern, wie z.B. Manizales oder Santa Rosa de Cabal. So kann sich Ihr Körper allmählich an die Höhe gewöhnen.
  • Das Hotel liegt sehr abgelegen und es fahren keine öffentlichen Verkehrsmittel dorthin. Sie können nur mit Ihrem eigenen Auto oder einem privaten Transport dorthin gelangen. Ich hatte über das Hotel in Santa Rosa de Cabal einen privaten Fahrer arrangiert, aber Manizales ist näher (ca. 1,5h)
  • Sie fahren nach Termales del Ruiz, um sich zu entspannen, wandern im Vogelschutzgebiet und machen einen Ausflug zum PNN los Nevados (Autofahrt in den Park von 5km, ohne Wanderung oder Trekking). Sonst gibt es nichts zu tun, es sei denn, Sie sind ein Fahrradfanatiker und möchten wie die sportlichen Kolumbianer eine Mountainbike-Tour zum Nationalpark Los Nevados unternehmen.
  • Ich wohnte in einem Zimmer mit großartigem Blick auf die Berge und die Thermalbecken, aber nicht alle Zimmer haben diesen Blick. Fragen Sie danach, wenn Sie eine Reservierung vornehmen möchten.
  • In den Hotelzimmern gibt es eine Heizung, aber nicht im Restaurant oder anderen öffentlichen Bereichen des Hotels. Nehmen Sie daher einen schönen dicken Pullover oder Mantel mit.
  • Wenn Sie an einem Sonntag zurück nach Manizales fahren, sollten Sie einen Zwischenstopp im Dorf Termales einlegen. Sonntags sind alle BBQ-Restaurants geöffnet und es herrscht ein reges Treiben um dort zu Mittag zu essen. Ganze Familien gehen in ihr kleines Lieblingsrestaurant, um einen Happen zu essen. Besonders die Spezialität Chorizo ist sehr beliebt.

Sehen Sie sich unseren Reiseführer Kaffeedreieck für weitere Informationen über die Kaffeeregion in Kolumbien. Wenn Sie von der Kaffeeregion weiter nach Jardín oder Medellín reisen, sehen Sie sich unseren Reiseführer Medellín und Umgebung.

Kostenlose Tour durch El Poblado-Medellín

Medellin Reiseführer, Reiseberichte

Kostenlose Tour durch El Poblado-Medellín

El Poblado is the most popular neighborhood in Medellín. For us, it was now the second time we had been there. And yet much was still unknown to us about this tourist area. We didn’t really know more than Lleras park, the Milla de Oro and Parque El Poblado. Honestly, we never thought about the origins of El Poblado. The (fairly new) free El Poblado tour, was therefore the perfect opportunity to learn more about Medellín’s most popular neighborhood.

We scheduled the tour on our first day in El Poblado. After registering ourselves through Beyond Colombia’s website and receiving a confirmation via email 1 day before the tour, we reported to Parque Poblado at 4 p.m. We were ready to go!


We were lucky because besides the two of us, there was only 1 other participant for the tour in English. The group for the Spanish-language tour was big, with a large group of tourists from Argentina. Together with our guide Natalia and Heather, we started the tour. Heather was an American, who traveled the world by motorcycle and was now staying in Medellín for a while to get her motorcycle repaired. Before leaving, we paused at the monument honoring Medellín’s first colonial settlement, founded in 1616 on the site where Parque El Poblado is today.


We liked not having to walk in a “herd” behind our guide, which also allowed us to stay a little longer at a particular stop. Like at the first stop, a micro beer brewery, just around the corner from Parque El Poblado. Here they brew beers with unusual flavors, such as coconut and Jack daniels. After Natalia delighted us with the explanation of the different beer flavors, she wanted to keep walking, but of course we put a stop to that -:). We were not leaving without tasting a beer! In connection with the elections the next day, no alcohol was allowed to be served from 6 p.m. onwards. So we were just in time!


With the beer in our hand, we walked on to the Calle 10 and stopped at a beautiful mural titled Medallo, “code name” among graffiti artists for Medellín.


After this, we walked on to a beautiful vantage point in El parque de la Bailarina, in the Astorga neighborhood.


The park is like an oasis in the city and is home to as many as 30 species of birds, including the Yellow-winged Macaw. Despite the park’s beauty, it has a tragic history. The park is dedicated to Isabel Cristina Restrepo Cárdenas, the best dancer in Medellín’s classical ballet, who was murdered in 2008.


Near the park, we stopped at Colombia’s only restaurant with a Michelin star; El Cielo. This was very special for us, because we really wanted to eat here, but couldn’t get a table. Despite the high prices, restaurant el Cielo is fully booked months in advance!


We walked on to Lleras park and it was lovely to walk among all that greenery, with vantage points on streams and rivers.


There was even a coffee plant to be seen in all that greenery.


We made a break at a statue of Mary, where Natalia explained to us why statues of Mary were placed in Medellín, in places such as parks and subway stations. During the drug conflict, this was done to counter violence. How could a statue of the Virgin Mary do that? The reasoning behind this is that even the biggest criminal loves his mother. By placing images of the “mother of all mothers,” there would be less violence in these places!


At the vía Primavera, Natalia showed us some stores, with locally made clothes. She also made some recommendations for the best coffee (Cafe Pergamino) and the best ice cream in Medellín (Amor Acuyá). Such a tasty ice cream was very tempting, but due to the long line, we decided to pass.


At the actual (lleras) park that is currently being renovated, Natalia explained that -because of the renovation- the locals’ nightlife has largely moved to the vía Provenza.


However, we still found it very lively and cozy in Lleras park with live music and lots of restaurants and cafes.

At the end of the free El Poblado tour, Natalia showed us some photos of the old El Poblado, before it was filled with high-rise buildings for rich Colombians in the 1970s and drug lord Escobar laundered his money there. What a difference!


After giving Natalia a (well-deserved) tip, everyone went their separate ways and we decided to have another drink at the Envy Rooftop Bar in the Charlee hotel. The view there was said to be amazing and yes it was indeed!


With a coconut lemonade (no piña colada because of prohibition -:)) we toasted to el Poblado. Learned a lot about the (not always beautiful) history of El Poblado and got many tips for the nicest places to eat and drink. What a wonderful first day of our stay in Medellín!

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: June 2022

Information and tips (June 2022)

The tour
Before the tour began, we really had no idea what to expect from it, but we were pleasantly surprised. The tour lasted 3 hours and the tour guide really took her time. It was a perfect mix of information and walking. After the tour, we had a much better understanding of the scope of the neighborhoods and saw that there is so much more to the city than the tourist “hype” alone. The tour is based on gratuity. Guideline is around COP40,000, about $10. For more info, check out the website of Beyond Colombia.

#Colombia tips

#1 Do the tour at the beginning of your trip!
We got lots of tips during the tour for great restaurants etc. If you do the tour at the beginning of your stay in El Poblado, you can take full advantage of those tips

#2 Sample a locally brewed beer
Our favorite at Barrica cervezeria was the coconut-flavored beer. We paid COP15000 each, about $4

#3 Check out our travel guide Medellín for more tips on fun things to do and the best restaurants and cafes. Check here for more city tours in Medellin.

Kurzer Städtetrip nach Bogotá

Bogotá und N-Bogotá, Reiseberichte

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Kurzer Städtetrip nach Bogotá

In Bogotá, it is incredibly rainy and cold. There. That’s out. And that’s the end of it. After all, as a born “Dutchie”, I am used to a good portion of cold. Brrr! But now I have been living on sun-drenched Curaçao for 16.5 years. Very hot-pfff. In short: it is never good, or: I am just a nag. Or both. Anyway: This Happy Grouch went on a short city trip to Bogotá with her family, for the first time. The travel period was a midweek in the Easter vacations.

Knowing Colombia only from sunny Medellín, I understood that I had to dress for Bogotá. So the heels, shirts and skirts went out of the suitcase; the fleece sweater, jeans, sneakers and socks were packed. And that turned out to be a very good decision. Because in Bogotá, surrounded by mountains, there is a lot to see and discover. And for that you need practical clothing.

I stayed with my family in a lovely, pleasant, fairly small hotel (“Hotel Jazz Apartments“), located in Parque Virrey; a beautiful residential/work/walking area on one of Bogotá’s many parks.

As far as I am concerned, this is a lovely part of the immense metropolis; a nice park on the doorstep, well-maintained, orderly, lively but also quiet, with the shopping street, coffee bars and restaurants within walking distance. AND thanks to the rain, everything was beautifully green and in bloom.

It is definitely an area for the well suited residents, with its many exclusive stores, restaurants and…. dogs. Oh, those dogs! In large numbers you see them walking with their dog walkers or owners, not infrequently dressed in “doggie designer clothes”! It is a wonderfully cheerful sight.

After a good breakfast from the small,- but surprisingly extensive & creative buffet in the cozy hotel (with its simple but nice rooms and very nice beds!), we went for our daily cup of cappuccino to the Illy Bar around the corner.

From there we set off on a beautiful walking route through the park, past bright flower-stalls, to the long shopping street. Small stores and eateries alternated with upscale designer stores and exclusive restaurants.

Once you arrive in the heart of the shop & dine area (about 20 min.walk), you will find 2 medium-sized shopping malls of the more exclusive kind: Andino Mall and El Retiro Mall.

What stands out there is that -in addition to the usual shops- there are public craft and art exhibitions. Bogotá is proud of its local products and artists, which is very nice to see. Prices in these malls range from quite pricey to quite affordable. These are -except for the lunchrooms- no cheap malls, but in other parts of the city you can find them.

In the afternoon hours it was a delight to visit the many restaurants. Cheap and expensive eateries alternate here. For people with special dietary needs (like myself), the selection in such a metropolis is a bit disappointing, but the quality is usually good to very good. Even in the small eateries.


It is highly recommended to visit the historic district of La Candelaria. Not because it is so much more beautiful there, but because of the historic buildings, the narrow alleys, and the unique atmosphere. It can be reached by taxi or Uber; the trip took about 45 min. Taxis are very affordable, but do pick a licensed company (with taxi numbers & plates).

One disadvantage is that it is a lot more crowded and touristy, with an abundance of similar stalls with pushy salesmen. They are nice though, and leave you alone as soon as you tell them to. Something else that was unfortunate was the fact that we were not allowed to enter the Museo d’Oro – the Gold Museum. It was in the latter days of the Corona pandemia, and our son had only a recovery,-but no vaccination certificate. That wasn’t a problem anywhere, just in the Gold museum. But that was soon forgotten after a visit to the large, cozy square with its terraces and a remarkably talented street musician (the conservatory was nearby; lucky us!).

After visiting La Candelaria, we walked on to downtown Bogotá……very overwhelming! And not necessarily in positive in. But of course that remains a matter of taste and feeling. The traffic is extremely busy, and there are many people, cheap stores and fast food restaurants. The friendliness of most people you experience further afield in Bogotá (& Colombia) is significantly less here. Realize, you are in a metropolis, with the frenzy, crowds, traffic chaos and stress that comes with it.

I was soon completely fed up, but we could only find a taxi for the way back after a long search. (Public transport is also well organized there, but we deliberately chose taxi transport that day). Tired but satisfied, we finally drove back. We spent most of the evenings in the hotel after visiting restaurants. It was very convenient that there was a Starbucks across the street, for a late after-dinner espresso….

After 5 wonderful days, we said goodbye to the friendly hotel staff, and traveled back to our sunny little island. With a little regret in our hearts…. We would have liked to have seen a bit more of this large, diverse city with all its sights, but in itself Bogotá is very well suited for a short city trip.

We are happy with our visit to Bogotá, and have fond memories of it, as well as the wonderful, innovative Medellín. Colombia continues to surprise us, and we would love to explore it further!


Travel date April 2022
Written by Niki

#ColombiaMyWay tips

#1 Take it easy the first day in Bogotá so your body can get used to the altitude difference

#2 Check the link Hotel Jazz Apartments for more info on the hotel where we stayed.

#3 More hotels around Parque Virrey can be found here.

#4 Prefer to explore Bogotá’s city center with a guide? Then check here the options.