Chapinero tour: coffee, culture and Tejo

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Tour with a local in trendy Chapinero, Bogotá

During our previous trips to Bogotá, we had already seen the well-known tourist sights, such as historic center La Candelaria, Cerro Monserrate and the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá. Therefore, during our trip in September 2024, we were looking for something else to do. Our eye fell on the Chapinero hotspots and Coolture tour with a local guide. Chapinero is a centrally located neighborhood in northeastern Bogotá between La Candelaria to the south and the Zona Rosa (Zona T) to the north.

Chapinero Alto is known for its hip vibe and its many creative stores, restaurants and cafes. Vogue magazine even called Chapinero Alto the Williamsburg of Bogotá (a trendy neighborhood in New York).

The starting point of the tour was Almendro Repostería Artesanal, a cafe a 15-minute drive from our hotel in Teusaquillo. On our way to Almendro we drove through Chapinero Central, a busy neighborhood with many stores. It didn’t seem like the best neighborhood, but at one point we went uphill across an intersection and here we saw the busy neighborhood turn into a quiet residential area.

Our Uber dropped us off at the Repostería. We were quite early and waited at a table for guide Angela. In the café we could see right away, that Chapinero Alto is a trendy neighborhood. There were mostly hip, young people here. Given the several laptops, we noticed that Almendro is popular with digital nomads. Angela soon came in and introduced herself. She is a born and raised Rolo (native of Bogotá) who lived in Chapinero Alto for 5 years. She works as an IT designer and owns her own tour company, for which she gives tours in her spare time. In addition to this Chapinero hotspots and Coolture tour, she also does a Chapinero cocktail tour and a hotspots and Coolture tour in Usaquén, where she lives these days. We turned out to be the only two participants on the tour and Angela invited us to choose something delicious from the menu. We chose a cappuccino with a Media Luna (croissant).


Over dinner, Angela explained that Chapinero Alto is a popular place with families and expats. Singles also like living in Chapinero Alto because there are many social things to do and fun places to meet people. From Almendro we walked to the bookstore/publishing house Santo and Seña where we were given a guided tour. In addition to a large collection of Spanish-language books, there was a small collection of English-language books, vinyl records and even cassette tapes!

Angela also showed us a booklet of cartoons about the famous Colombian writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez. The cartoons tell the story of the writer before he became famous. Because Gabriel Garcia Marquez and his family had little financial resources, he had sent only the second (last part) of his first book to an Argentinian publisher. The latter was so enthusiastic, that he sent money to send the first part of the book. And the rest is history!

Boutique Mapa is a beautiful store  selling jewelry, clothing and art by local designers. The unique shoes especially stood out. Varietal was our next stop. This is a well-known café in Bogotá, with several branches. We had our second cup of coffee of the morning on the cozy outdoor terrace.

On the bench in the garden we found Mafalda, a popular Argentinian cartoon character. Mafalda is concerned about world peace and has an innocent but serious attitude toward important problems. She plays an important role in Latin America’s long tradition of political satire.

Metkalu is the local “market,” where many local brands and organic products are sold. We found several interesting products, but because of our (already full) suitcases, we couldn’t buy too much. We bought tea made from cocoa and copoazú, a fruit from the Amazon (family of cocoa). We also couldn’t resist the soursop marmalade.

We really enjoyed walking around Chapinero Alto, with its up and down streets and English architecture.

You will find a mix of modern apartment buildings and old residential houses.

Angela explained that rents in Chapinero Alto have risen significantly in recent years and that many residential houses have been turned into restaurants and stores. The older houses are very spacious and different entrepreneurs can share the spaces with each other to reduce costs.

It is a cozy neighborhood, with an artistic vibe, fun neighborhood stores and a wide selection of restaurants and cafes.

In Chapinero Alto you can eat Japanese and Mexican food and order a real eclair or quiche from a French bakery.

In addition, there are several vegetarian restaurants, like Mesa Salvaje, which is also known for its delicious coffee. If you are vegan or vegetarian, then Angela’s veggie tour in Chapinero might be something for you.

We walked past the HAB Hotel, a boutique hotel located in a beautiful, stylish building. The HAB café is the hotel’s restaurant, which is also popular with locals. If you stay at the HAB hotel, you have more than enough culinary choices anyway, with several restaurants and cafes within walking distance.

For our next and final stop, we walked through Parque de los Hippies to Tejo Turmeque, a walk of about 10 minutes. Parque de los Hippies is -like the Santa Fe neighborhood- a “zona de tolerancia” which means that things that are not allowed elsewhere, such as drugs and prostitution, are tolerated here. By the way, Parque de Hippies is not a real park with greenery, it is more like a square where people gather and teens come to skateboard. In late 2019, Chapinero was the center of anti-government demonstrations. Concerts and other events were held in Parque de los Hippies.

Totally unexpectedly, Angela entered a doorway to Tejo Turmeque, a place we would never have found on our own! The street that Tejo Turmeque is on also had a somewhat “shady” feel to it. According to Angela, it is safe during the day, but not a nice place to walk around late at night. Playing Tejo had been on our wish list for a long time and now we had the chance! We were first given an explanation of the game, where you have to throw steel discs as close as possible to the center of a slab of clay. Then you get the most points.


Here you throw from a distance of 15 meters. If you throw on the paper envelopes filled with gunpowder, a big bang follows and you get extra points.

Of course, that was the thrill of the game! It took some practice, but we managed to hit well a few times.


It is said that the origin of the game lies with the Muisca Indians, who used gold discs during rituals.

Throwing the disc, we thought was a bit like bowling, but more exciting! Tejo’s main “rule” is: The more beer you drink, the better it goes -:)

We kept it to 2 beers, but nevertheless it went quite nicely for the first time! What a great experience to play this game, the three of us had a lot of fun. Next to us were 4 locals playing, which also went quite fanatically. In a larger group this will undoubtedly be fun too, with the competitive element!

The Tejo was the end of the tour and we enjoyed it! It was very nice to get to know a different part of Bogotá with a local, who not only knows the nicest spots, but is also familiar with the history of the neighborhood. Moreover, Angela is an interesting personality with a broad interest which allowed us to talk about all kinds of things, not only about Chapinero and Bogotá, but also about other places in Colombia, Europe and our home base Curaçao. In short: highly recommended if you are in Bogotá and want to do something fun that is not on the traditional tourist route!

Travel Date September 2024
Written by Jeanette

#ColombiaMyWay tips & practical information

  • The tour lasts 3 hours and there are different departure times each day. Departure is from Chapinero Alto
  • Tip: If you want to do the Tejo, you can only do it on tours starting at 2 p.m., Thursday through Saturday. On the other days, the tour ends with a cocktail. When booking, mention explicitly that you want to do the Tejo.
  • An Uber from La Candelaria / Teusaquillo takes about 15min. We came from Teusaquillo and paid COP13,500/$3.50 for the Uber.
  • Drinks and snacks are included, as are 2 beers at the Tejo. We found this more than sufficient, but if you want to order additional (alcoholic) drinks and food, this is at your own expense.
  • Check out here for more information and to make a reservation
  • Want to stay in this trendy neighborhood? Then check here your options for hotels and hostels in Chapinero.

Off-the-beaten-track destinations in Colombia

Colombia has much to offer the traveler, from bustling cities and dense jungle, to beautiful beaches, national parks and traditional villages. There are also still many beautiful, unknown destinations that are not on most travelers’ plans. The reason for this? It is often more difficult to get there or tourism is just getting started. These -off the beaten track- destinations, we at NaarColombia find especially worthwhile!

Here we share tips for our favorite off the beaten track destinations of Colombia!

#1 Casanare

The department of Casanare in the Llanos Orientales, is known for its great diversity of birds, wildlife and typical Llanero culture. On some hatos (ranches) in the private nature reserves, you can experience the life of the Colombian “cowboys.” Activities you can do are bird watching, horseback riding, wildlife watching during a Colombian safari and take a boat ride on the river. Animals you can see include capybaras (the largest rodents in the world), anteaters, armadillos, caimans and howler monkeys. Starting point for a trip is capital Yopal, accessible by plane from Bogotá and Medellín and by bus from Bogotá. The hatos that are within a few hours’ drive of Yopal are usually easily accessible by car. If you want to get to a hato deep inland, a private transfer from the airport is the best option. Public transportation is limited in these remote areas and you can often only get there by all-terrain vehicle or motorcycle.

#2 Chocó-Pacific

Chocó is one of the most authentic regions of Colombia and one of the wettest places in the world. Because of this, there is exuberant nature with dense jungle that ends on miles of beaches. This is the best place in Colombia for whale watching and some of the best diving in the world can be found here. Because the jungle in Chocó was inhabited by guerrillas for many years, it was a “no-go area for a long time, but today Nuquí and Bahía Solano + El Valle safe to visit. Nuquí and Bahía Solano can be reached by a direct flight from Medellín. Chocó is one of the poorest areas of Colombia, but locals have embraced tourism and are happy and proud to welcome travelers. Reason enough to be surprised by the overwhelming nature, wildlife and smiling faces of the largely Afro-Colombian inhabitants.

 

#3 Amazon

Capital city Leticia is a well-known destination in the Amazon. Less known is that as a traveler you can also be part of life in an Indian community. A stay at a Native American community guarantees a special experience, where you will learn about the rituals and about the community’s special bond with nature. There are more than 60 indigenous tribes in the Amazon, with the Tikuna being the most important group. Among them, you can stay overnight in the Indian community of Mocagua, a 1h boat ride from Leticia, Santa Sofia at 1h, Macedonia at 1.5h and San Martin de Amacayacu at 2.5h by boat from Leticia. Leticia can be reached by direct flight from Bogotá.

#4 La Guajira

La Guajira is the northernmost region of Colombia, 175 km from Santa Marta and 92 km from Palomino. Dit is een dunbevolkt, geïsoleerd en extreem droog gebied. Het landschap bestaat uit woestijnachtige vlaktes, verlaten stranden en hoge zandduinen. Het is een arm en weinig bezocht gebied, waar de Wayuu wonen, de grootste groep indianen in Colombia. De Wayuu overleven hier al honderden jaren, o.a. door te vissen en geiten te houden. Een aantal Wayuu stellen hun huizen open voor het toerisme, waardoor je als reiziger can learn about Wayuu culture. You can stay overnight in a Rancheria, an authentic Wayuu accommodation. By buying authentic Wayuu handicrafts, including beautiful bags, you also support the local community. A trip to La Guajira, is a trip for adventurers, with the limited infrastructure and “basic” amenities. Do you make the trip to Punta Gallinas, you will have gained an impressive cultural experience and be rewarded with beaches that you have largely to yourself.

#5 Isla Malpelo

Ilsa Malpelo is located in the Colombian Pacific, 400 kilometers from the mainland. This is a dream location for divers and one of the best places to dive in the world. Animals you can spot are manta rays, whale sharks (in summer) and nearly 400 species of fish. In addition, Isla Malpelo is “Shark diving capital of the world.” Due to the strong currents, diving on Isla Malpelo is not suitable for beginners. You get there with an organized package trip from Buenaventura or Cali, sleeping on the boat.

#6 San José del Guaviare

San José del Guaviare is located on a transitional area between the Llanos Orientales and the Amazon. This results in unique flora and fauna. Travelers there can hike to recently discovered Indian drawings and spectacular rock formations, spot wildlife and take boat trips on the mirror-smooth rivers. San José del Guaviare also has its own pink river at Tranquilandia, which is a lot less well-known than Colombia’s most famous pink river: Caño Cristales. For a long time, San José del Guaviare was a “no go” destination because of the drug conflict, but after the peace agreement, tourism has slowly taken off. Tour operators are working with local Native American communities and families formerly employed in the coca industry and now telling their stories to travelers. Because tourism is still in its infancy, you will be one of the few tourists! Moreover, a trip to San José del Guaviare, is one that will inspire you and give you insight into the history of the country and its inhabitants, who prefer to look forward, rather than back. San José del Guaviare is just over an hour’s flight from Bogotá.

 

#7 Tierradentro

Tierradentro is an archaeological site of nearly 20,000 square meters in the department of Cauca, with statues and tombs from the pre-Columbian civilization lying on top of the hills. You can also visit tombs there, some of which are up to 8 meters deep. Tierradentro is on the Unesco World Heritage List. The easiest way to get there is via Popayán. It is a destination often skipped while traveling in Colombia. The archaeological site San Agustín is easier to reach during a tour of southern Colombia and is therefore often preferred.

 

#8 Coffee Region

Atmospheric villages abound in the Eje Cafetero/Zona Cafetera, Colombia’s famous coffee triangle. Every traveler going to the Coffee region, has probably heard of Salento -and in lesser extent-  Filandia-, but there are many other (and much quieter!) coffee villages, such as Pijao, Buenavista, Apia, Marsella, Salamina and Aguadas.In Salamina you can visit the Valle de la Samaria, the “alternative “(and much less crowded) Valle de Cocora, an hour’s drive from Salamina.

 

 

#9 Jericó

Many travelers visit while staying in Medellín, the well-known villages Jardín and Guatapé. Het traditionele dorp Jericó is a lot less well known. Except among Colombian tourists and lovers of churches, because there are no less than 17 of them! Jericó is about a 3-hour drive from Medellin.You can visit coffee plantations, hike and horseback ride, among other things. Otherwise, you can mostly relax and enjoy the atmosphere of the colorful village, grab a cup of coffee in one of the nice tents and try the local cuisine in one of the good restaurants. Especially on weekends, the square is a pleasant place to be, where more visitors can be found who come there for a cup of coffee or cerveza, or simply for a chat. Other lesser-known villages near Medellin are Tamesis (3h) and Venezia (2h).

 

#10 The island of Providencia

Providencia is a Caribbean island located some 800 km north of Colombia and 150 km east of Nicaragua. Where neighboring island San Andrés is a popular vacation island among Colombian tourists, Providencia is a lot quieter. The island is mostly visited by travelers who come to dive, snorkel and relax at one of its beautiful beaches. The sea around Providencia is called the “Mar de los 7 colores,” because of the colors in all variations, from aqua to green. The coral reefs around Providencia are part of the 3 e longest coral reef in the world, part of which belongs to the Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park. Turtles, sharks and rays, among others, are found here. With a past as English colonies, Providencia and San Andrés are an “odd duck” in Colombia. The English influence is still evident: the names of villages and beaches are given in English and Creole English is spoken alongside Spanish. Many locals feel more Caribbean than Colombian and there are many Rastafaris on the island.

 

Continue reading here for more destinations in Colombia and the best hotels in Colombia. Need more inspiration for what to do do? Check here more articles with information about the best things to do in Colombia, travel routes and travel stories.

All about Providencia: What to do and tips

All about Providencia: What to do and tips

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About Providencia

Providencia is a Caribbean island located some 800 km north of Colombia and 150 km east of Nicaragua. Where neighboring island San Andrés is a popular vacation island among Colombian tourists, Providencia is a lot quieter. The island, which has 5,000 inhabitants in an area of 17 km2, is mostly visited by travelers who come to dive, snorkel and relax at one of its beautiful beaches. Most locals live in the capital Santa Isabel in the north of the island. In Providencia, you can listen to reggae at one of the beach bars while enjoying a tropical cocktail and a freshly caught fish. In short; all the ingredients for a true island feeling are present on Providencia.

Afro-Caribbean culture
With a past as English colonies, Providencia and San Andrés are an “odd duck”. One of the population groups on the islands is the Afro-Caribbean “Raizal,” who speak an English-Creole language. The English influence is still very noticeable: the names of villages and beaches are mentioned in English, and Creole English is spoken alongside Spanish. Many locals feel more Caribbean than Colombian, and there are many Rastafari on the island.

The sea of 7 colors
The sea around the islands is called the “Mar de los 7 colores,” because of the colors in all variations, from aqua to green. The coral reefs around Providencia are part of the 3rd longest coral reef in the world, part of which belongs to the Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park. Turtles, sharks and rays, among others, are found here.

In this travel guide we share information and tips for fun things to do in Providencia, the most beautiful beaches + the nicest hotels to stay in. You will also find practical information and useful tips for your stay on the still relatively unknown Caribbean island of Providencia. If you want to know more about other destinations on the Caribbean coast, read on here.

Our tips

What to do in Providencia?

What to do in Providencia. From snorkeling, to climbing the island’s highest peak, here are our tips.

1. Snorkel at the small island of Crab Cay

Crab Cay/Cayo Cangrejo is part of McBean Lagoon National Park, a 10km2 nature reserve. At this coral reef with its clear water, you can spot turtles, among other things. The island itself is 500m2 in size and from the highest point at 30 meters, you have a beautiful view. There is no beach, but you can buy a cold drink. Entrance fee is COP21,500 / $5 (2023) You can kayak to the park, catch the boat in Maracaibo bay or book a tour at Pelagic tours. Check their Instagram for more info. Tip: It can get very crowded, so go as early as possible.

2.Hike to the highest point of Providencia

At 360 meters, The Peak/ El Pico is the highest point in Providencia. You walk through the rainforest until you reach the spot with the best view of the island. The trail starts in Bottom house (Casabaja) and takes about 2-3 hours in total (there and back). It is a steep climb, best done early in the morning because of the heat. A guide is mandatory and costs COP70,000 per person. Depending on your pace, the hike takes 3-4 hours. Bring plenty of water and a snack.

3. Walk across the "lovers bridge" to Santa Catalina island

The bridge runs from Santa Isabel to Santa Catalina island. According to legend, walking with your lover across the “Puente de los Enamorados” guarantees eternal love! On Santa Catalina island you can rent a kayak, explore deserted coves and kayak to the popular snorkeling spot Morgan’s head. This is a rock in the shape of a face, named after English pirate Henry Morgan. You can also hike to Morgan’s head. The hike takes about half an hour and on the way you will pass Fort Bay Beach, a quiet beach and cool place to snorkel.

4. Enjoy a tropical cocktail on the beach

Two popular bars are Roland Roots bar (Manicheel Bay) and La Sirenita Sunset (South west bay). At Roland’s, the reggae music creates a nice Caribbean atmosphere. The popular Coco loco is served in a coconut. Each bartender makes their own version of the cocktail, but at least it contains: rum, lime juice, coconut milk and coconut water, possibly topped with tequila and vodka. La Sirenita’s specialty is the Mojito.

5. Take an introductory dive

With warm water, little current and clear water, Providencia is a fine place to do your first dive. Even if you want to do the PADI Open Water Diver course, there are several diving schools that can certify you, such as the well-regarded Felipe Diving Center and Sirius Dive shop. Even if you have dived before, diving on Providencia is worthwhile. The coral reef is part of the third largest coral reef in the world and has been designated a Biosphere reserve by UNESCO. There is a great diversity of fish and other marine animals, such as sea turtles and stingrays. For an extra touch of adventure, you can dive to one of the shipwrecks. The price for an introductory dive, is around COP200,000/$54 For an PADI Open water certification you pay around COP1,000,000/$270. This is a 4-day course.

These are some of Providencia’s best dive sites:

Manta’s place
This dive site includes stingrays and sea snakes

Felipe’s Place.
Here you will find beautiful corals and many species of marine animals

The Spiral
Dive site with the greatest biodiversity in Providencia

Santa Catalina Slope
Santa Catalina island is known for shark spotting

How to plan your trip to Providencia

How to get there.

How to get to Providencia?
Providencia is much more isolated than San Andrés, 90km away, because there are no direct flights from mainland Colombia. Currently (July 2024), Satena is the only airline flying from San Andres to El Embrujo airport in Providencia. The flight takes about 20-30 minutes and is operated by small planes. Due to the limited number of seats, the flights fill up quickly and early reservations are necessary. You can buy a ticket from about 125 euros. (Satena) Note: You are only allowed 10 kg of luggage for free and 5 kg of hand luggage. airport tax is COP35,000 (2024). Flights to San Andres depart from Bogotá, Medellín, Cartagena, Barranquilla and Cali, among others. Flights to Andres can be booked from $90 for a return ticket from Cartagena with low-cost airline Wingo.

Cab from the airport
A ride from the airport costs between COP25000/$6 and COP40,000/$10 depending on your destination

Tourist map
For San Andrés / Providencia, you need a tourist card, which you can buy at the airport gate where you board your flight to San Andrés. It costs COP124,000 / $31 (2024) and is valid for 3 months for both San Andrés and Providencia. You’ll also need the tourist card again when you leave the islands! Be sure to have this money cash on hand, as you can’t always pay by credit card

Catamaran
There is a catamaran crossing from San Andres 6 times a week. The trip takes about 3.5 hours and can be very rough. Check the Conocemos Navigando website for more information. The price is between COP 300,000-COP400,000 / $75-$100 (return) Update 2024: the catamaran service is currently unavailable due to maintenance

Transportation in Providencia
There is only 1 major road on the island and a convenient way to explore the island is by scooter. Scooters and baby carriages can be rented at several hotels for about €20. In about 45 minutes you can drive around the entire island. You can also rent a baby carriage from about €35, or a bicycle. Here you have to take into account the heat and cycling uphill. If you don’t plan to arrange your own transportation, you can use moto-taxis. A ride costs between COP5000 and COP12000 / $1.35-$3.The hotels can help you arrange moto-taxis.

Climate and best time to go

Climate
The island has a tropical climate with an average temperature between 25 and 30 degrees. There is high humidity. The best time to visit Providencia is from mid-January to April, the dry season. The period from May to October is the hottest and most humid. October and November see the most rainfall. The island is located in the southern part of the hurricane belt. Hurricane season runs from June to November, but hurricanes are most common beginning in August. Check the current weather forecast for Providencia at Windfinder Providencia.

*Hurricane Iota, update 2023:
On Nov. 17, 2020, Hurricane Iota destroyed 98% of Providencia’s infrastructure. It was one of the worst hurricanes Colombia has ever experienced. A lot has since been rebuilt and the roads are in good condition. If you drive across the island, you will probably still see places where construction is still going on, but you can travel to Providencia just fine. Besides, the locals live off tourism and you as a visitor are more than welcome!

High season
Semana Santa (Easter week), August and the Christmas period are favorite periods to travel for Colombian tourists. If you can, avoid this period as prices are higher. If you do travel during this period, book your hotel and flight well in advance.

Special Events
April-July:
Migration of the crabs
If you are in Providencia between April and July, you have a chance to see the migration of the crabs. During a two-week period, the adult black crabs migrate to the beach to lay their eggs. After this, they migrate back into the mountains. A few weeks after, the young crabs follow in their footsteps. During this period, roads are partially closed to traffic to protect the crabs.
June:
Cultural Festival
During the last week of June, Providencia’s most important cultural event takes place. It is a festival with music and dance, a beauty pageant and a parade of motorcycles.

How many days of Providencia?

If you come to snorkel and enjoy the beautiful beaches, about 3-4 days is fine for Providencia. If you want to do a diving course, then you need a week.

The beaches of Providencia

Providencia’s most popular beaches are on the south coast of the island.

Southwest Bay is an elongated beach on the southwest side and one of Providencia’s most popular beaches. Horse races are held here on Saturday afternoons. You will find a number of restaurants serving delicious seafood and bars including El Divino Niño restaurant and la Sirenita cocktail bar.

Freshwater Bay is located not far from Southwest Bay. Here you will find a number of popular restaurants such as Caribbean Place Donde Martin and Restaurante Miss Elma.

Almond Bay is a relaxed beach with calm and clear waters, which is located in the northwest. Because the beach is a 5-minute walk from the main road, there are not very many visitors. There is little shade on the beach. There are a few simple stalls selling drinks, such as the Coco loco.

Manicheel Bay is a somewhat rougher beach, with strong currents, on the south coast. The beach has become best known for Rolands Roots bar, where you can enjoy reggae music and Coco loco cocktails.

Where to stay in Providencia?

Where to stay in Providencia?
Don’t expect super-deluxe accommodations in Providencia. Many hotels are simple but comfortable posadas run by local families.

You can choose to stay in the quiet northern part of the island, near Mc Bean hill, Maracaibo Bay and the car-free Santa Catalina island. A wooden boardwalk takes you from the capital Santa Isabel, to the island.

Most hotels are located in the south of the island on the main road along the coast, near the beaches of Southwest Bay and Freshwater Bay. This is also where most of the restaurants and bars are.

Much of the interior is undeveloped and is mostly nature reserve. There is 1 main road across the island and with a scooter or baby carriage you can drive around the whole island in about 45 minutes. So no matter where you stay, you are never really far away from the beach.

Read on here for our hotel tips in Southwest Bay, Freshwater Bay, Manicheel Bay, the north and Santa Catalina Island.

$ price range up to $50

$$ price range $50 – $75

$$$ price range above $75

Southwest Bay, Freshwater Bay, Manicheel Bay

North, northeast and Catalina island

Practical info A-Z

Is Providencia safe? What should I bring with me? What about withdrawing money in Providencia? How exactly does the tourist card work? Is Providencia expensive? Check here for practical information and useful tips for your trip to Providencia.

Food

It’s fish and seafood what counts in Providencia. A specialty of the islands is Rondón, “a coconut-based seafood stew. This is also the national dish of Providencia. For a quick snack, there is “pan de coco,” coconut bread; airy buns with shaved coconut. At Big Mama’s Sweet taste, on Santa Catalina island, eat breakfast and lunch on her porch. The favorite with locals is Steve’s Jerk Chicken, with chicken, spare ribs and potatoes from the BBQ.

Budget

Providencia is not a low-budget destination. You will spend more for hostels and hotels than on mainland Colombia, and because most items have to be imported, groceries and eating out are more expensive. Added to this is the extra flight or boat trip from San Andrés, which will cost you extra. A lunch of fish will cost you around $10. If you want to save money on groceries, you can bring some perishable items from the mainland.

Drinking water

The water from the tap is not drinkable

Cash withdrawals

You can use debit cards in Santa Isabel, but to be safe, bring cash as well

Medical

The Hospital local de Providencia is located in Santa Isabel.

Packing List
  • Anti-mosquito spray
  • Sunscreen
  • Airy clothing
  • Swimwear
  • Sandals/ flip flops and hiking boots
  • Snorkeling gear (also available for rent on the island)
Language and locals

Afro-Caribbean culture
With a past as English colonies, Providencia and San Andrés are an “odd duck”. One of the population groups on the islands is the Afro-Caribbean “Raizal,” who speak an English-Creole language. The English influence is still very noticeable: the names of villages and beaches are mentioned in English, and Creole English is spoken alongside Spanish. Many locals feel more Caribbean than Colombian, and there are many Rastafari on the island.

Tourist card

For San Andrés / Providencia, you need a tourist card, which you can buy at the airport gate where you board your flight to San Andrés. It costs COP124,000 / $31 (2024) and is valid for 3 months for both San Andrés and Providencia. You’ll also need the tourist card again when you leave the islands. Without a tourist card you won’t get into the islands! Be sure to have this money cash on hand, as you can’t always pay by credit card

Vaccinations

Yellow fever vaccination is not required for Providencia

Safety

Providencia is one of the safest destinations in Colombia.

Transportation

There is only 1 major road on the island and a convenient way to explore the island is by scooter. Scooters and baby carriages can be rented at several hotels for about €20. In about 45 minutes you can drive around the entire island. You can also rent a baby carriage from about $35, or a bicycle. Here you have to take into account the heat and cycling uphill. If you don’t plan to arrange your own transportation, you can use moto cabs. A ride costs between COP5000 and COP10000 / $1.35-$2.70. The hotels can help you arrange moto cabs.

Wifi and telephone

Most hotels have free wifi for their guests, but don’t expect high-speed Internet. For around 30,000COP you can buy a SIM card with data.

Where to stay in Leticia? – Information and tips

Where to stay in Leticia? – Information and tips

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Where to stay in Leticia in the Amazon? There are many options. For example, in the city itself there is plenty of choice for every budget. Also 10-20 km outside the city you will find several accommodations, accessible by road and where you still stay in nature. Furthermore, you can catch a boat in Leticia and spend the night deep inland with an Indian community, where you will be introduced to its special culture. A 2-hour boat ride from Leticia lies Puerto Nariño, a good alternative to Leticia as a starting point for day trips in the area. Read more here if you want to stay overnight in Puerto Nariño. In this guide you will find our tips for hotels in Leticia and the surrounding area and for overnight stays with Indian communities in the interior.

Tips for booking your hotel or hostel

Our 5 #Colombia tips

Tip #1
Stay with an Indian community deep in the jungle
Staying with an Indian community is the most authentic experience in the Amazon. The (basic) accommodations can arrange local guides who will take you on tours, hikes in the jungle and introduce you to the culture and traditions of the Indian community. The Indian communities below are accessible by 1 -1.5 hour boat ride from Leticia.

  • Mocagua, 1h sailing from Leticia.
    Here you can stay overnight at La Ceiba, which is next to the Amacayacu National Park.

  • Macedonia, 1.5h sailing from Leticia
    Maloka Barü: hostel with a terrace with nice view during sunset

Here you can read more about Leticia’s express boat that stops at indian communities. When you book, check with your hotel to see if they can reserve tickets for the boat for you.

Tip #2
Stay in a hotel in nature, not too far from Leticia
The accommodations below are in the middle of nature, but are accessible by cab, tuk-tuk or bus from Leticia. If you want a little more luxury in the Amazon, check out the Amazona lodge, with wellness center.

  • Reserva Natural Tanimboca
    A nature reserve, where you can spend the night in a treehouse. (11km) Other activities include ziplining, kayaking and night hikes.

  • Casa Azul Reserva Amazónica
    Here you spend the night in a nature reserve with a local family. You have to be willing to go out of your way to get there: After a tuk-tuk ride from Leticia, you have to hike 2-3 hours through the jungle.

Tip #3
Check what is included with your stay!

Most hotels require you to pay separately for transportation to/from the hotel, tours and activities. Also check if your stay includes breakfast and other food and drinks. If there is no on-site restaurant, you can prepare for this by doing some groceries in Leticia.

Tip #4
Check out our tips for hotels in Leticia here
If you’re staying in Leticia for a few days, then Decameron hotel is in a good location, 300 meters from the port and central square. Decameron is considered the best hotel in Leticia.

Another good option is Hotel Amazon Bed & Breakfast, Leticia’s first boutique hotel, less than 2 blocks from the central plaza.

Waira Suites is a comfortable hotel with two pools in downtown.

If you want to take a day trip from Leticia, the hotels can help you to arrange this. Tip: arrange a private tour, which is customised, so you don’t have to do the “standard” sightseeing in a large group.

$ price range up to $50

$$ price range $50 – $100

$$$ price range above $100

Leticia

Practical information Leticia

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Practical information Leticia

Here you will find practical information and useful tips for Leticia, such as: can you withdraw money, is Leticia safe and how is the wifi in Leticia.

Practical info A-Z

Drinking water
Water is not drinkable, also be careful with raw vegetables and avoid restaurants where you have doubts about hygiene.
Food and drink

With its location on the border of three countries with their culinary influences, you can try something new every day in Leticia. At Tierras Amazónicas you can try specialties from the Colombian, Peruvian and Brazilian Amazon. If you really want to try something local -and adventurous- there are the mojojoy worms, which are grilled or stuffed. The Pirarucú fish is particularly recommended. If you don’t like fish, there is usually a chicken or meat dish available. 

One of the better restaurants in Leticia is Nativos. Besides fish, you can also order meat dishes here and the restaurant is known for its delicious ceviche.

In Santa Rosa, Brisas del Amazonas is highly recommended and in Tabatinga Restaurantes 3 fronteras. Particularly popular for the Brazilian drink. For a meal of fish and rice you will pay around COP20,000 $5.

ATM

There are several ATMs in Leticia. The ATMs do not always have enough cash, so we recommend that you already withdraw money in Bogotá as well. Make sure you have enough cash with you to pay for tours and in restaurants. Poor wifi means you can’t always pay by card.

Electricity

If you go to an accommodation deeper in the jungle, there is often only a few hours a day of electricity, during which you can charge your devices. In the jungle there is no air conditioning and usually no fan, but since it cools down at night, that is not necessarily a problem.

Phone / Wifi

Claro has the best coverage in Leticia. It is recommended to bring a local SIM card. Wifi is slow and not all hotels have wifi.

Safety
  • Leticia is known as safe. However, it is not recommended to travel between the different countries at night, even if it is just to cross the “border.” There are gangs that smuggle between the 3 countries and therefore you should avoid Tabatinga at night or use cabs and tuk tuks. The center of Leticia is safe, but avoid the suburbs.
  • Don’t go into the jungle alone, but hike with a guide who knows his way around and knows the animal!
  • Check here the travel advice of the ministry of foreign affairs of Canada   and the United States.
Supermarkets

The better-known supermarkets in Leticia are supermercados Hipercosto and supermercado la Ceiba.

 

What to do in Leticia?

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What to do in Leticia, in the Amazon? There are plenty of fun things to do in Leticia and the surrounding area to keep you entertained for a few days. Here are our 10 tips for the best things to do in Leticia.

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10 Tips

Must do’s

1. Visit 3 countries in 1 day

Take a boat from the port to Isla Santa Rosa in Peru (15 min.) You can have lunch right there and try the Peruvian specialty ceviche at Brisas del Amazonas. On the Brazilian side of the border in Tabatinga are many stores, bars and restaurants. A great place to order the popular caipirinha cocktail is la Komara, where you have a nice view of the Amazon River. You get there by tuk-tuk.

Tip#1
In Brazil and Peru there are other currencies, (Real and Sol) but you can usually pay with Colombian pesos.

Tip #2
You do not have to go through immigration if you are just going back and forth for a day. If you stay overnight then you do have to go through immigration.

 

2. Spot the many parrots in Parque Santander

Around 5 p.m. masses of parrots come from the jungle to the park to sleep in the trees, a spectacular sight (and sound)! The best view is from the church tower. For COP5000/$1.25 you may enter to enjoy the best view. Even during the day, the park is a nice place to observe the daily life of the locals.

 

3. Visit Parque Ecológico Mundo Amazónico

Want a taste of Amazon nature and culture before your jungle trip? Then visit this park with botanical gardens, aquarium, jungle trails and a recreated village of an Indian community. For the cheapest ticket, you pay 100,000COP/$25 including transportation to/from your hotel and 140,000COP/$35 including jungle trail +lunch. You can also do a night hike there for 120,000COP/$30. Check out the website of Mundo Amazónico for more info.

4. Mingle with locals at the market

We think the local market is always the best way to get a glimpse into the lives of the locals, so too in Leticia! Check out the fish from the Amazon River and the many beautifully presented tropical fruits. The market is close to the port, making it a good place to visit before you get on the boat.

5. Visit the Ethnographic Museum

In the library of Leticia you will find the Ethnographic Museum. The museum has a collection of objects from the various Indian communities of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Urabá and Chocó, and particularly from the Amazonian Indian communities, such as the Uitoto, Yukuna and Tikuna (Magutá). The museum is free to enter and closed on Sundays and Saturday afternoons.

6. Visit Reserva Natural Victoria Regia

If you want to take a short trip by boat from Leticia (about 30 min.), you can visit this small nature reserve, with the water lily Victoria Regia Amazónica. The leaves of the largest water lily in the world can grow up to 2 meters wide. The 5-10 cm high rim allows the leaves to support a weight of as much as 40 kg without sinking!

7. Take a side trip to the Marasha Nature Reserve

In just half an hour by boat, you can reach this nature reserve in Peru, where you can kayak on the lake, spot birds and fish for piranhas

 

8. Go ziplining at Tanimboca nature reserve

In the nature reserve 12km from Leticia (half an hour by tuk-tuk), besides ziplining, you can do other activities such as kayaking and night hiking. If you have always wanted to sleep in a treehouse, this is your chance, because you can stay overnight in one of these treehouses.

9. Stay overnight with a Native American community

One of the highlights of a trip to the Amazon, learning about the rituals and the community’s special bond with nature. There are more than 60 indigenous tribes in the Amazon, with the Tikuna being the most important group. A 1.5-hour boat ride from Leticia is Mocagua and Macedonia. A 2.5-hour boat ride away is the Tikuna community of San Martín de Amacayacu. Read here our tips for special overnight stays at Native American communities in the Amazon.

 

10. Take a trip to Puerto Nariño and stay overnight.

Puerto Nariño is a relaxed eco-village 2 hours by boat from Leticia. You can go there on a day trip, but since there is a lot to do in the area, it is also nice to spend the night. In Puerto Nariño you can stroll around and admire the colorful houses with graffiti, spot river dolphins in Lake Tarapoto and see the work of the monkey sanctuary at Maikuchiga Monkey Sanctuary.

 

Bonus tip

Try local specialties from 3 countries!
With its location on the border of three countries with their culinary influences, you can try something new every day in Leticia. At Tierras Amazónicas you can try specialties from the Colombian, Peruvian and Brazilian Amazon. If you really want to try something local -and adventurous- there are the mojojoy larvae, which are grilled or stuffed with fish, meat or chicken and then deep-fried.

In terms of fish, the Pirarucú is highly recommended. If you don’t like fish, you can usually get a chicken or meat dish. Read more about the culinary specialties of the Amazon in this article.

How to get to Leticia

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How to get to Leticia? No roads run to Leticia, so the capital of the Amazonas department can only be reached by plane and boat. Here you’ll find everything you need to know to get to Leticia

# 1 By plane to Letica
Flights always go through Bogotá, there are no direct flights from other major cities in Colombia. If you are coming from Brazil, you can also fly from Manaus to the border city of Tabatinga in Brazil. Both Latam and Avianca fly from Bogotá to Leticia. Prices can vary, but you can buy a round-trip ticket starting at about 80$. The flight takes about 2.5 hours.

* Upon arrival at Alfredo Vásquez Cobo International Airport, you must pay the tourist tax a COP 38000/$9.50 (2024). There is no ATM where you arrive, so make sure you already have this in cash with you.

* There are cabs at the airport to take you to your hotel. The airport is very close to downtown Leticia. A 5-minute cab ride/around COP10,000/$2.50 will get you to most hotels. Want to start your arrival extra relaxed? Then book here book your cab to your hotel online.

#2 By boat to Leticia
You can also reach Leticia by boat if you come from Iquitos in Peru or Manaus in Brazil. Here you have the choice of “slow boats” or “fast boats.”

  • From Iquitos in Peru, you can take a fast boat that takes about 18 hours and a slow boat that takes about 3 days. The boats drop you off in Santa Rosa. Prices are between $35-$70.
  • From Manaus in Brazil to Leticia, there are fast boats that take about 36 hours. The price for a ticket is around $150.
  • From Manaus to Tabatinga on the Brazilian side of the border, there are slow boats that take around 155 hours. Tickets cost around $75.

#3 Taking an organized tour to Leticia
If you prefer a tour organization to take the organization of the trip to the Amazon off your hands, you can also book a tour. Check here the options for an organized tour to Leticia.

#4 Transportation in Leticia
The tuk-tuk is a popular means of transportation. For COP5,000-COP12,000 ($1.25-$3) you can take a ride around town or attractions nearby. In addition, there are cabs that can take you to attractions. There are also buses that leave from Parque Orellana.

#5 Are you traveling on by boat after arriving in Leticia?
Then check here info about the express boat to Puerto Nariño which stops along the way at Native American communities

 

Travel Guide Leticia, Amazon

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About Leticia, Amazon

Leticia is the capital of the department of Amazonas (Amazon) in the Amazon region. About 50,000 people live there. It is a busy and chaotic city small enough to walk around. The city on the Amazon River is the starting point of a jungle adventure. It is here where you arrive by plane from Bogotá and where you may continue your journey by boat to Puerto Nariño or one of the ecolodges in the area.

If you are staying a few days in Leticia to get used to the climate before your jungle adventure, check out this travel guide Leticia, Amazon. Here you’ll find everything you need to know for a visit to the “gateway to the Amazon.” How to get to Leticia, what to do, what are the nicest hotels and useful tips about internet and banking in Leticia.

All about Leticia

How to get there
What to do
Hotels and hostels
Practical information

Where to stay in San Agustín

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Where to stay in San Agustín? The range of accommodations for every budget is quite large, both in the city and outside, where you can find cozy hotels in the midst of nature. In this article you find tips that will hopefully make it a little easier to choose your accommodation.

ColombiaMyWay Tips

Tip #1
At 1.5km from the city are the beautiful cabañas of Masaya San Agustín. Because of its location on top of a mountain you have a beautiful view of the valley from here. There is a good restaurant and the hotel can arrange transport for you to town and excursions such as jeep tours and horseback riding.

Tip #2
Would you rather stay in the city in a cozy hostal? Then Hostal Bambu is a must. Because of the common areas, you can easily socialize with other travelers. The hostal also organizes several active tours. Bonus of the hostal is its rooftop terrace with mega hammocks, a lovely place to enjoy the view during sunset.

Tip #3
Looking for a nice hotel in a quiet area, close to several archaeological sites? Then check out hotel Monasterio San Agustín. This cozy hotel is located in the middle of nature, 4.5km from the center.

Tip #4
Want to spend the night overlooking Colombia’s highest waterfall? Then book an overnight stay at the Ecohotel Bordones., in Isnos, an hour’s drive. From the hotel you have a super view of the 200-meter-high Salto de Bordones waterfall.

Read on for more tips on hotels in the various price ranges.

$ price range up to $40

$$ price range $40 – $75

$$$ price range above $75

San Agustín

Want to know more? Then check out the full travel guide San Agustín with information on what to do, practical information, the best travel time and transportation to San Agustín.

What to do in San Agustín? How to book excursions safely + bonus tips

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What to do in San Agustín? The archaeological park is certainly not the only attraction. There are plenty of fun things to do in San Agustín, especially if you like a little action. Its mountain location with lush vegetation, waterfalls and coffee plantations is perfect for active tours. Check out our tips for what to do in San Agustín, from horseback riding to rafting to spotting Colombia’s highest waterfall.

7 Must do’s + bonus tips

1. Get in a jeep and explore the area

A jeep tour is the perfect way to visit the more remote archaeological parks, with the bonus of visiting the impressive -200-meter-high- El Salto de Mortino waterfall. In the archaeological park Alto de los Idolos, you will find the most tombs and statues after the archaeological park in San Agustín. In Alto de las Piedras you can admire the iconic statue “Doble Yo” and In the Obanda archaeological park you will find similar tombs to those in Tierradentro.

 

2. Admire the highest waterfall in Colombia

The Salto de Bordones is 400 meters high and spectacular to see, from the viewing platform. You can’t get that close so you can swim in the waterfall, but it’s still cool to see the waterfall from the viewing platform. The Salto de Bordones is an hour’s drive from San Agustín. Want to do something really special during your visit to San Agustín? Then stay at the Ecohotel Bordones, from where you have a super view of the Salto de Bordones waterfall. The hotel can arrange transportation for you from San Agustín.

    3. Go horseback riding in the beautiful surroundings

    There are several options for horseback riding. For example, you can go horseback riding to the various archaeological sites in the vicinity of San Agustín, such as La Pelota, El Purutal, El Tablón and La Chaquira, an archaeological site with panoramic views of the Magdalena River gorge. Another great tour is a horseback ride to the Tres Chorros waterfall where you will pass fincas and swim at the waterfall.

    4. Take a stroll through San Agustín and slide in for lunch

    Start the walk at the main square Parque Simon Bolivar with the Iglesia de San Agustin and stroll through the streets. If you have ever been in the villages in the coffee region , you’ll notice that the houses here are a lot less colorful. The houses are mostly painted white and green. Stop for lunch at one of the restaurants, such as Fonte cafe restaurant, which usually offer a cheap daily menu for COP10,000/$2.50. Specialty of the Huila region is Asado Huilense, a large piece of marinated pork that is grilled or slow-cooked in a clay oven. Want to learn more about the traditions of the locals? Then take a cultural tour, learning about the culture of San Agustín through music, dance, gastronomy and crafts.

    5. Learn about the coffee process from "bean to cup"

    The region around San Agustín is not nearly as well known as the Zona Cafetara or the surroundings of Medellín, yet good quality coffee comes from here. During this private tour you will see the coffee process from “bean to cup” of the organic coffee finca la Cabaña. The owners have been in the coffee business for more than 50 years.

    6. Go rafting on the Magdalena River

    Rafting on the Magdalena River gives you guaranteed a huge adrenaline rush! You don’t need any experience to join this rafting adventure. The tour is private and can be adapted to your level, so even if this is your first time rafting, you are more than welcome.

    7. Go mountain biking!

    With this mountain bike tour you can enjoy nature to the fullest, cycling to a hidden waterfall, crossing rivers, visiting archaeological sites and having breakfast with the locals.

    Bonus tips

    1. Visit the most "instagrammable" village in Colombia

    If you take a tour of southern Colombia, make a stop in the city of Gigante, between Neiva (87km) (the Tatacoa Desert) and San Agustín (135km). At the Montaña la Mano del Gigante you can take a picture by the “giant hand,” but now there are more attractions and viewpoints, such as a slide, a large “dream catcher” and a swing under an arch with rainbow colors .

    Buses leave from Neiva to Gigante. Once you are in Gigante, you can take a cab from the central square (around COP25,000/$6) or jeep (around COP10,000/$2.50) The ride on a bumpy road takes about half an hour and the cab will drop you off at the entrance to the Mirador.

    Insiders tip: if possible, do not plan your trip on weekends or Colombian holidays! It is extremely busy then with locals taking day trips. Waiting time to take a picture at La Mano del Gigante can then add up to several hours!

     

     

    2. Visit archaeological park Tierradentro

    Tierradentro is an archaeological site of almost 20,000 square meters in the department of Cauca, with statues and tombs from the pre-Columbian civilization lying on top of the hills. You can also visit tombs there, some of which are up to 8 meters deep.

    Tierradentro is on the Unesco World Heritage List and is an unusual off-the-beaten-track destination, not often visited by travelers. The easiest way to get there is via Popayán. From Popayán there is a direct bus to San Andres de Pisimbala once a day. (Sotracauca, 4.5h). You can also take an organized tour from Popayán.

    You can also get to Tieradentro via San Agustín, but that is a more complicated trip if you are traveling by bus. You then have to travel first to Pitalito, then on to Garzon, and catch the last bus from La Plata to Tierradentro. Most buses stop at the intersection “Crucero de San Andres,” 2km from the entrance to Tierradentro. Here you can take a cab to the entrance. It is more convenient to arrange private transportation from San Agustín to Tierradentro. Check here accommodations near Tierradentro.

    Tip: It is a tough hike through the mountains to get to the tombs, so you must be in good physical condition for this trip.

    Ready to plan your trip? Then check out our travel guide San Agustín with info on the best hotels and hostels, the best travel time, practical information and info on transportation to San Agustín.

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