Bocas de Ceniza-Barranquilla
Bocas de Ceniza-where the river meets the sea
Bocas de Ceniza is a fun -off the beaten track- trip, just outside Barranquilla. To get there, take the cab + mototaxi and hike to the point where you can see the “meeting point” of the Magdalena River and the Caribbean Sea. Find information and tips for a trip to Bocas de Ceniza here.
Bocas de Ceniza gets its name from its ash-colored waters, at the point where the river meets the sea. Bocas de Ceniza was discovered in 1501, and in 1842 the first steamships crossed the river from the sea. Partly due to the construction of a railroad between Puerto Colombia and Barranquilla, Bocas de Ceniza became an important international trade destination.
The expression “it’s not about the final destination but the journey to it,” certainly applies to a trip to Bocas de Ceniza. For our trip, we first caught a cab to the neighborhood of Las Flores. After this, we took a motorcycle cab for a bumpy ride along the old railroad line to the point where the motorcycle could go no further. During the ride, we enjoyed the scenery, the birds and the skyline of Barranquilla.
From here it was about a 50-minute walk to the lookout point. We passed huts of friendly fishermen repairing their nets, or preparing a meal on the fire.
The last stretch was mostly scrambling over rocks, driftwood and washed-up debris.
A fisherman who was fishing at the very tip helped us climb to the highest rock, the end point of the trail.
Once we arrived at the viewpoint, we were able to take a break and enjoy the nice breeze. Years ago, you could see the separation between the river and the sea very well (and close). Now we could only see the “meeting point” of river and sea in the distance.
Although the views were a touch disappointing, we thought it was a very enjoyable trip. We loved being in nature and experiencing Barranquilla off the beaten path.
It was quite confronting to see the conditions in which the fishermen live and work. While their families live in the city, the fishermen spend their days in primitive shacks without electricity. The mototaxi driver told me that the mototaxis play an important role for the fishermen in Bocas de Ceniza. The mototaxis ensure that bags of ice and other supplies are brought to the fishermen.
After the trip, we had a cold coke at the restaurant and man what a need we had after the sweaty walk!
#Colombia Tips
Tip #1
Cab
For the trip to Bocas de Ceniza, we recommend hiring a cab driver to wait for you. It can otherwise be difficult to get a cab back from Bocas de Ceniza. We had a cab driver that day who made several trips with us. We paid COP100,000/€25 for that.
Tip #2
Train
The train that normally travels the trail to Bocas de Ceniza is under maintenance. (September 2023) You can walk the trail along the railroad, or take a mototaxi to the end of the railroad. The trip by mototaxi costs COP25,000 per person. The mototaxis wait for you until you finish. Given the heat, we found it more than worth it to take the mototaxi.
Tip #3
Safety
We felt very safe during the trip. The fishermen we met were all very friendly and so were the drivers of the mototaxi. We felt that the drivers also felt responsible for us. Added to that we made the trip with my travel companion’s (local) family. We got there early on a Tuesday morning and otherwise saw no other tourists on the trail. If I were to make this trip alone or as a couple, I would prefer to go on weekends when it is busier.
Tip #4
Bring
Bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat because it is very hot on the trail. Because you have to walk over rocks in parts, good hiking shoes are absolutely necessary.
Tip #5
The trip combines well with the Ciénaga de Mallorquín, a mangrove park with beach that is just around the corner. Currently, the mangrove park is open only on weekends (September 2023).
Tip #6
Learn more about Barranquilla and fun things to do in our Barranquilla travel guide .
Tip #7
Check out more information about our rondrip along the north coast of Colombia, with information on Minca, Tayrona National Park and Santa Marta.