During my trip to the hotel Termales del Ruiz in the coffee region, I did not want to miss the opportunity to visit Los Nevados National Park, “home to” the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima and Nevado del Santa Isabel, whose glacier can be climbed.

Now I do have an adventurous spirit, but trekking to a glacier, is not my thing. For that matter, I wouldn’t have the guts to embark on such an (icy) adventure either!

A car ride in the park, therefore, seemed like the perfect, alternative option for me to be able to see something of the park. The hotel arranged a private trip for me with Edoardo, a retired employee of Los Nevados National park. For this busy bee, sitting still is not an option, which is why he and his wife also run their own hostel. I expected Edoardo to be an excellent driver and conversation partner for the trip. He did not speak English, so I could practice my Spanish enough during the trip.

Edoardo came to pick me up at the appointed time and we drove early to the Brisas entrance of Los Nevados national park, an 8 km drive.

Here began a rather complicated registration procedure, as I had to pay at 3 different counters: for the car, for the guide in the park and for the mandatory insurance. After this I was given a green wristband and after the whole payment procedure, there followed a mandatory movie and briefing about the park.

This was held in a stone cold room, so I was glad when the car ride could finally begin! The guide led the way with his own car and we, along with a few other cars, drove -in the fog- after the guide.

During the briefing, it had been explained to us, that during the 5 km ride, we would pass several ecosystems. At the first stop Aguacerales, at 4160 meters, we saw another beautiful green landscape.

After this, the route gradually went up and the landscape changed to the Páramo and super Páramo landscape, with mostly rocks and sand. Characteristic of the Páramo, are the unusual Frailejones trees, which can reach 12 meters in height.

During each stop, the Ecosistemas guide gave a passionate explanation of the flora and fauna of the area. After this, we were able to walk around a bit and take pictures of the changing vegetation, such as here at the Parador at 4290 meters.

At the third stop at the Valles Lunares -the name says it-, there was nothing more to see than a lunar landscape.

After this we left for our final stop, the Valle de Tumbas, at 4450 meters. Here the guide told us the gruesome story of the eruption of volcano Nevado del Ruiz in 1985. This disaster devastated the town of Armero, killing more than 25,000 people.

Due to volcanic activity, a code yellow was in effect during our visit and the viewpoint at Nevado del Ruiz (5100 meters) was closed. Cameras, among others, are closely monitoring the situation.

At the Valle de Tumbas, the traces of the lava flows were still clearly visible. Very impressive to stand here and know what tragedy had occurred -:( Everyone in the group was really silent for a moment. After the last stop, the small “caravan” left again for the exit.

After the car tour, Edoardo asked if I was hungry and I certainly was! Mountain air makes one hungry and just the thought of a nice bowl of hot soup made my mouth water. Edoardo told me that his wife Sandra Patricia cooks the most delicious dishes for guests from the hostel and day-trippers who go to Los Nevados National Park. I was up for that, but first I was given a cup of tea with coca leaves, which Edoardo said was the perfect remedy for altitude sickness.

Not much later, I was sitting behind a steaming bowl of soup. This was followed by tasty fish (my favorite, trucha= trout) and a nice dessert.

After this delicious meal that cost less than 7 dollars, proud Edoardo -together with his granddaughter- gave me a tour of the hostel called Mirador del Kumanday.

After a “photo shoot,” it was time to head back to hotel Termales del Ruiz. Since the granddaughter had never been to the hotel before, it was my turn for a tour of the thermal baths. As a surprise, I bought her some chocolates at the hotel, which she chewed up gratefully.

When I reconnected with Edoardo six months later, he told me that his hostel had now expanded with a cabaña -with a view of the volcano- named El Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion).

Curious about this adventurous accommodation? Check their facebook page of Glamping Leon Dormido.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019

In planning my trip to the famous coffee region of Colombia, the Zona Cafetera / Eje Cafetero (coffee triangle), I did not initially think of visiting Hotel Termales del Ruiz, a hotel at 3,500 meters altitude near the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz.

More I thought about…. doing a tour on a coffee plantation, staying overnight in a coffee finca and especially drinking lots of cups of the delicious “black gold” …

But, as I was doing some surfing on the site of booking.com, the hotel immediately caught my attention. Hotel Termales del Ruiz is a former ski resort and the only hotel near los Nevados National Park. Its location in a nature reserve and the 2 thermal pools made the hotel completely attractive!

The exciting idea of staying so close to the active volcano Nevado del Ruiz did not let me go and when I read that I could book a day trip to the park from the hotel, I was sold and booked 3 nights.

Thus my itinerary in the coffee triangle was complete: flight from Bogotá to Pereira, on to Hotel Hacienda Combia in Calarcá, after this via Santa Rosa de Cabal to Hotel Termales del Ruiz and flying back via Manizales to Bogotá.

After our visit to the Anato -tourism fair in Bogotá and a few wonderful days at the coffee finca in Calarcá, we continued our journey to Santa Rosa de Cabal, starting point for the trip to Termales del Ruiz.

From Santa Rosa de Cabal, my travel companion was going back to Curaçao and I would continue on my own. A severe throat infection almost ruined my plans, but after an emergency consultation with the Angeles al Llamado and a few days of rest in Santa Rosa de Cabal, the (long) car ride to Termales del Ruiz could begin.

Just to get there was an adventure in itself. From Manizales to Termales del Ruiz, the road climbed slowly and the green landscape turned into the páramo landscape with the extraordinary Frailejones trees.

Along the way, we made a stop to enjoy an arepa de chocolo and chocolate caliente. The hot chocolate was especially welcome as it was getting pretty chilly.

With the counter on 3476 meters, we were almost there.

It was almost unreal to see the hotel in the “middle of nowhere.” Up to this moment, I was used to mostly fresh green plains in the coffee region, but here we were really in the mountains.

After the driver dropped me off at the hotel, I went to check in….brr it was soo cold! There was no heater at the front desk and this “Dutch Caribbean girl” was happy to go to the room and turn on the heater. Surely these were different temperatures from the 30 degrees on my island in the Caribbean Sea! A bathrobe was already waiting for me in the room and I immediately wanted to jump into the warm water.

I naively thought at first that I could walk out to the bathtub in my bathrobe, but I really couldn’t. It was sooo cold! I quickly turned around, went back to the room and put on my thick coat. I changed clothes downstairs in the locker room. The feeling of sliding my cold body into the hot bath was amazing. An employee of the hotel came to ask if I wanted something to drink and I thought a vino caliente (hot red wine) was fitting in the whole experience -:).

In the evening, I settled myself in front of the fireplace in the restaurant and thought about the day over an aromático (herbal tea).

The next morning I joined a tour of the bird sanctuary.

During the hike, the hummingbirds were the star of the show. It was easy to see, that the reserve is a hot spot among birdwatchers and photographers, because one photographer had an even bigger lens than the other! Not surprising, considering that there are over 160 species of birds in the nature reserve.

With my smartphone I also managed to take pictures of the hummingbirds, but I liked it better to explore the reserve itself -without the photo shoots- and so I did in the afternoon.

There were trails past viewpoints and small waterfalls, and there was a nice chill spot with a view.

The first day at Termales del Ruiz was more than successful!

On to the next day, with a new adventure, the private tour to Los Nevados National Park.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019