On Colombian safari: Hato La Aurora, Casanare

Los Llanos Orientales, Travel Stories

A wildlife safari in Colombia’s lowlands

At another spot we saw an anaconda about 5 meters long. The anaconda was easy to sport for guide Giovanny because the water was low. The animal lay curled up quietly in a corner…I didn’t think I would ever be able to spot an anaconda so close!

At 8:30 a.m. after breakfast, the safari began. I didn’t really know what to expect from a “Colombian safari,” but was looking forward to it immensely. We set off with a small group: Dutch couple Anneke and Ted with their Colombian translator Gabriela, guide Giovanny and me. Across the river, the jeep was already waiting.

Anteater
Pretty soon, we stopped at a tree. I looked in the branches to see if I could see any birds, but it turned out I had to look in the tree itself, in which a tamandua (tree anteater) was sleeping. Silently, we stood observing the little animal. It was such a cute sight, we could see its eyes and long snout very well. By the looks of it, the animal was used to people coming to observe, because he opened its eyes briefly and then continued sleeping.

Oasis
After this, we drove across the savannah landscape to a lagoon, to observe birds and walk. This was a dream spot that was like an oasis in the desert landscape. Pretty soon we saw three caimans at very close range and a lot of birds. Among these, the red ibis caught my eye the most.

Safari in Africa?
We walked toward a smaller lagoon, with lots of capybaras. With all those animals at the waterhole, it really looked like a safari in Africa now! Along the way we saw 3 little owls, which had made a hole under the ground. Too cute! We also saw birds of prey, who “watched over” the lagoon, wild horses and cows. Because of the countless birds, it was a twittering match!

Anaconda
At another spot we saw an anaconda about 5 meters long. The anaconda was easy for guide Giovanny to spot because the water was low. The animal lay curled up quietly in a corner…I didn’t think I would ever be able to spot an anaconda so close!

Siesta at Hato la Aurora
To escape the heat between 12 and 3, we spent that time at the main house of Hato la Aurora. We were welcomed to the ranch with a (miniscule) cup of coffee.

There were many little birds and also 2 macaws, so there was plenty to see. Furthermore, we could wander around and see the working tools of the Colombian cowboys. Due to a funeral in Yopal, only two people were working. The rest of the workers were in Yopal, so it was very quiet at the ranch.

In search of jaguars
After lunch and a wonderful siesta in the hammock, we continued the safari. Our mission: to look for jaguars! The day before, Giovanny had seen a mother with baby and of course we were hoping to spot them too! During a stop for a walk in the forest, guide Giovanny spotted jaguar tracks. The tracks were not fresh, but Giovanny decided that we were going to have a look in the forest anyway.

Giant anteater
We had to be very quiet so as not to startle the animals. At one point, we heard leaves cracking…. I felt that everyone was excited. At one point, we saw a giant anteater running through the forest. These are nocturnal animals, so we were lucky to see this special animal!

Countless birds
After this we went to another lagoon, again with countless species of birds. We nested here to spot the birds and wait to see if the jaguars did show themselves for a while. We were not as lucky as the safari goers the previous day, as we did not spot the jaguars. It didn’t matter much to us because the safari was more than successful anyway. We enjoyed the sound of all the birds and the tranquility for a while longer. With the sun setting, the view was absolutely stunning. In the dark we drove back to the river, for the crossing to the lodge. Here the crew was already waiting for us again with a tray with glasses of lemonade. 😊

Check out our travel guide Casanare – the Colombian safari- for more info. Need a hotel in Yopal before or after your safari? Then check here the options.

Colombian hospitality in Yopal, Colombia

Los Llanos Orientales, Travel Stories

The taxi ride I wanted to do in the afternoon turned out to be an extended sightseeing trip. Trainee Alejandro from the hotel, suggested to go with me and he had also already arranged a taxi. I was a little overwhelmed by all this well-meaning “arrangement,” but I decided to accept the offer.

Chilling in Yopal after safari trip

Before the trip, I didn’t have any expectations of Yopal. The town has few tourist attractions and other travelers I talked to only stayed there for a night on their way to a nature reserve. Still, I decided to stay there for two nights rather  than spending the night in cold Bogotá before my flight home. With a reservation for a hotel with sauna, Turkish bath and swimming pool in my pocket, that was by far the most relaxing option -:)

Typical lunch
Student Gabriela, whom I had met earlier in the trip, gave me some tips for Yopal. My plan was to relax at the hotel and take a cab to El Mirador and Historia en Piedras in the afternoon. The day went a little differently than planned. Since Gabriela herself had also arrived in Yopal by now, we went to lunch together at Restaurante La Mamona. Here we ate the local meat specialty Mamona. Gabriela is studying English and anthropology in Bogotá and was in the Llanos as a translator for a Dutch couple. We had interesting conversations over lunch. For example, Gabriela told me about her life as a student in Bogotá and her roots in the Llanos.

Spontaneous city tour
After lunch, Gabriela spontaneously gave me a tour of the city. We started at the square and the white church Catedral San José de Yopal. After this we wanted to go to the city’s small museum, but it turned out to be closed on Saturdays. At the monument of the Llaneros, Escultor Llanero, there were posters of several famous Llaneros and Llaneras on display.

Well-meaning “arrangement”
The taxi ride I planned to take in the afternoon turned out to be an extended sightseeing trip. Trainee Javier from hotel Casa Morales, was afraid that the taxi driver would charge me too much, as a “solo traveler.” Therefore, he suggested to go with me. He had also already arranged another driver. Ms. Aurora, who was an acquaintance of the hotel, would drive us around. Cheaper than a regular taxi driver of course -:) I was a little overwhelmed by all this well-meant “arrangement,” but decided to accept the offer.

Sightseeing trip
Aurora drove us first to Historia and Piedras, but it turned out to be closed. Then we headed for the Mirador on the other side of town. On the way we would stop at Doña Barbara restaurant, the restaurant that is said to have the best arepas in Yopal.

The best arepas in Yopal
Restaurante Doña Barbara turned out to be a very cozy place. We had a coconut lemonade there and ate cheese arepas, which totally lived up to their reputation. I never had such delicious, well-filled arepas! Alejandro explained that later in the year, the Garzas (herons) come to the plains in front of the restaurant, to breed. As far as you can see then, there are birds and people come here especially to enjoy the view from a special platform. The restaurant is then a hot spot with stalls selling all kinds of food.

The Flintstones
On the way to the Mirador, we stopped at restaurante Mozarella Gourmet, a theme restaurant about the Flintstones. Too funny!

Viewpoint
From the Mirador de La Virgen with the statue la Virgen, we looked out on the lights of Yopal. It was bustling with people who came for the view and athletes walking up and down the hill. Fruit, drinks and (of course) arepas were being sold. I’m sure it must also be beautiful during the day to look out over the plains and mountains. After our visit to the Mirador, we were in the mood for a beer and headed back toward town.

Bogotá Beer Company
At the Bogotá Beer Company on the la T nightlife strip , we enjoyed a beer and exchanged WhatsApp numbers. I said goodbye with a promise to bring Dutch cheese on my next visit to Colombia.

Hospitality
Yopal had surprised me: there was enough to do to keep yourself entertained for a day and the people were super nice. These people made the difference for me between a nice trip and a great trip!

 

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: February 2020.

Want to know more about a Colombian safari from Yopal? Check out here for more info.