Medellín and surroundings

Medellín and surroundings

Overview

Medellín is the second largest city in Colombia and capital of the department of Antioquia; a fertile region with coffee plantations, flower farms and traditional villages. Besides the fact that Medellín itself has much to offer, the city -because of its central location- is also an ideal stopover during a tour of Colombia.

Highlights

Free El Poblado tour-Medellín

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Free El Poblado tour-Medellín

El Poblado is the most popular neighborhood in Medellín. For us, it was now the second time we had been there. And yet much was still unknown to us about this tourist area. We didn’t really know more than Lleras park, the Milla de Oro and Parque El Poblado. Honestly, we never thought about the origins of El Poblado. The (fairly new) free El Poblado tour, was therefore the perfect opportunity to learn more about Medellín’s most popular neighborhood.

We scheduled the tour on our first day in El Poblado. After registering ourselves through Beyond Colombia’s website and receiving a confirmation via email 1 day before the tour, we reported to Parque Poblado at 4 p.m. We were ready to go!


We were lucky because besides the two of us, there was only 1 other participant for the tour in English. The group for the Spanish-language tour was big, with a large group of tourists from Argentina. Together with our guide Natalia and Heather, we started the tour. Heather was an American, who traveled the world by motorcycle and was now staying in Medellín for a while to get her motorcycle repaired. Before leaving, we paused at the monument honoring Medellín’s first colonial settlement, founded in 1616 on the site where Parque El Poblado is today.


We liked not having to walk in a “herd” behind our guide, which also allowed us to stay a little longer at a particular stop. Like at the first stop, a micro beer brewery, just around the corner from Parque El Poblado. Here they brew beers with unusual flavors, such as coconut and Jack daniels. After Natalia delighted us with the explanation of the different beer flavors, she wanted to keep walking, but of course we put a stop to that -:). We were not leaving without tasting a beer! In connection with the elections the next day, no alcohol was allowed to be served from 6 p.m. onwards. So we were just in time!


With the beer in our hand, we walked on to the Calle 10 and stopped at a beautiful mural titled Medallo, “code name” among graffiti artists for Medellín.


After this, we walked on to a beautiful vantage point in El parque de la Bailarina, in the Astorga neighborhood.


The park is like an oasis in the city and is home to as many as 30 species of birds, including the Yellow-winged Macaw. Despite the park’s beauty, it has a tragic history. The park is dedicated to Isabel Cristina Restrepo Cárdenas, the best dancer in Medellín’s classical ballet, who was murdered in 2008.


Near the park, we stopped at Colombia’s only restaurant with a Michelin star; El Cielo. This was very special for us, because we really wanted to eat here, but couldn’t get a table. Despite the high prices, restaurant el Cielo is fully booked months in advance!


We walked on to Lleras park and it was lovely to walk among all that greenery, with vantage points on streams and rivers.


There was even a coffee plant to be seen in all that greenery.


We made a break at a statue of Mary, where Natalia explained to us why statues of Mary were placed in Medellín, in places such as parks and subway stations. During the drug conflict, this was done to counter violence. How could a statue of the Virgin Mary do that? The reasoning behind this is that even the biggest criminal loves his mother. By placing images of the “mother of all mothers,” there would be less violence in these places!


At the vía Primavera, Natalia showed us some stores, with locally made clothes. She also made some recommendations for the best coffee (Cafe Pergamino) and the best ice cream in Medellín (Amor Acuyá). Such a tasty ice cream was very tempting, but due to the long line, we decided to pass.


At the actual (lleras) park that is currently being renovated, Natalia explained that -because of the renovation- the locals’ nightlife has largely moved to the vía Provenza.


However, we still found it very lively and cozy in Lleras park with live music and lots of restaurants and cafes.

At the end of the free El Poblado tour, Natalia showed us some photos of the old El Poblado, before it was filled with high-rise buildings for rich Colombians in the 1970s and drug lord Escobar laundered his money there. What a difference!


After giving Natalia a (well-deserved) tip, everyone went their separate ways and we decided to have another drink at the Envy Rooftop Bar in the Charlee hotel. The view there was said to be amazing and yes it was indeed!


With a coconut lemonade (no piña colada because of prohibition -:)) we toasted to el Poblado. Learned a lot about the (not always beautiful) history of El Poblado and got many tips for the nicest places to eat and drink. What a wonderful first day of our stay in Medellín!

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: June 2022

Information and tips (June 2022)

The tour
Before the tour began, we really had no idea what to expect from it, but we were pleasantly surprised. The tour lasted 3 hours and the tour guide really took her time. It was a perfect mix of information and walking. After the tour, we had a much better understanding of the scope of the neighborhoods and saw that there is so much more to the city than the tourist “hype” alone. The tour is based on gratuity. Guideline is around COP40,000, about $10. For more info, check out the website of Beyond Colombia.

#Colombia tips

#1 Do the tour at the beginning of your trip!
We got lots of tips during the tour for great restaurants etc. If you do the tour at the beginning of your stay in El Poblado, you can take full advantage of those tips

#2 Sample a locally brewed beer
Our favorite at Barrica cervezeria was the coconut-flavored beer. We paid COP15000 each, about $4

#3 Check out our travel guide Medellín for more tips on fun things to do and the best restaurants and cafes. Check here for more city tours in Medellin.

Restaurant La Octava Maravilla

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Dinner with a view at La Octava Maravilla restaurant

During one of our trips to Medellín, my Colombian travel partner wanted to surprise me with dinner at the restaurant with the best view in Medellín. Where? I had no idea; the location was kept secret, right down to ordering the cab. So: I got in the cab and let myself me suprised!

From our hotel in el Poblado, we drove through Envigado to the suburb of Sabaneta and I really had no idea where we were going. Most of the famous restaurants are not in the suburbs, so I thought it was strange! As the cab climbed further up and the streets became narrower, I became more and more curious. We were now totally “off the beaten track.”

Even when the driver dropped us off at La Octava Maravilla and we were greeted by two mimes, I still had no idea. Especially when after this we were given a bag of popcorn and I felt like we had entered a circus. With our bag of popcorn at hand, we were further “ushered” toward a restaurant and there I got the real surprise, a fantastic, expansive view of Medellín! This was truly a surprise!

Now the meaning of the restaurant’s name also became clear to me; la Octava Maravilla=the eighth wonder of the world -:) The view was spectacular despite the clouds and I couldn’t get enough of taking pictures, from all angles.

After all the photographing, it was time for a drink. It became a piña colada, which was beautifully served in a pineapple.

We were not the only enthusiasts, as it was a coming and going of families and many couples, holding each other intimately and making it a romantic evening.

Meanwhile, the atmosphere was kept up by the entertaining staff. We would almost forget that we still had to eat and we ordered the churrasco. Although we ordered the steak tres cuatro (medium well), it was far too well done, but the delicious side dishes made up for a lot; nice potatoes and a salad with a delicious salsa of tomate de arbol.

After dinner we went for a final photo session. A photo with the staff was of course not to be missed!

While waiting for the taxi, we enjoyed one last view of Medellín as the line for the restaurant only grew longer.

The surprise was an enormous success!

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: June 2022

Tips and information

(June 2022)

Restaurante La Octava Maravilla is located in Sabaneta, a suburb of Medellín. That is why it is also called the Mirador Sabaneta. Come early because the restaurant is very popular with locals and you can’t make reservations. As a tourist, you can only pay in cash. Locals can also pay by bank transfer. A cab from el Poblado via the InDriver App cost us COP20,000/$5 and the ride takes 30-40min. For the return trip, we paid COP25,000/$6.

Look here for even more great restaurants and bars in Medellín.

Find more info on fun things to do in Medellín and more, in our travel guide Medellín.

Urban coffee tour: Barrio la Sierra

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Urban coffee tour in Barrio La Sierra

There are lots of tours you can do in Medellín, but for us the choice of the Urban coffee tour in Barrio La Sierra (Comuna 8) was quickly made. The combination of coffee and a community tour, completely “off the beaten track,” was the perfect combination for us.

We were immensely looking forward to the tour and were also a bit anxious, since Barrio La Sierra was once one of Medellín’s most dangerous neighborhoods. With guide Arturo, we would be able to see the Barrio’s transformation with our own eyes. To see the tour in this perspective, Arturo had advised us to watch the La Sierra documentary on Youtube (2004) about life in the neighborhood during the armed conflict between paramilitaries, left wing guerrillas and local street gangs.

We met Arturo at the entrance to the San Antonio metro station in the heart of Medellín. The three of us were the only participants, so the tour was private! After riding the tranvía (streetcar) through the Barrio Buenos Aires, we arrived at the metrocable station, where we caught the cable car to la Sierra, the last stop. The view was amazing and the ride was an experience in itself.

In the cable car, Arturo talked to a Colombian-American abuelita and and her daughter, who made the drive to La Sierra purely for the trip, but didn’t dare get out. They knew stories about La Sierra’s violent past and shared them with us. After watching the Youtube video the previous evening, we could vividly imagine this.

After getting off the cable car, we walked to the staircase with 577 steps.

Along the way we saw men building their own cottages. They were very friendly and proud when we asked questions about the construction. Meanwhile, all I could think was: omg, up those long stairs with all those bricks!!!

In addition, we chatted with two friendly ladies who were chatting on the balcony in front of their cottage and spoke to a schoolgirl who has known Arturo since babyhood. She assured us that it was not going to rain (which we feared) and she was right. Not a drop fell!

As we climbed further up, we saw men and women working with sugar cane and we passed the local (new) school.

When the school children saw us, I felt like this gringa immediately stood out next to my Colombian friends.

“How are you” and “I love you” flew through the air hahaha. As did “dame un dollar” -:) but Arturo explained that no money is given, so as not to create a pattern.

After climbing all the steps of the stairs, we thought we had almost reached the coffee plantation for our first coffee “shot,” but nooo…we were not there yet.

It was still a brisk but beautiful hike with beautiful views.

Arriving at Finca “increíble,” we were warmly welcomed by Rosa. We were given a cup of coffee with a sweet goodie, while Rosa began to tell us about the history of the finca. Her father Mauro was the “star of the show” with his wonderful stories and dry sense of humor.

He was also the one who showed us the young coffee plants and explained how to pick the coffee beans so we could earn our second cup of coffee -:)

After picking the beans, our “harvest” was checked, and we were shown the production process.

The taste of the second cup of coffee was surprising: a sweet, aromatic coffee brewed with panela (sugar water).

While sipping this cup of coffee, I asked myself at what time the tour would be finished, because we still had to start the walk back to the La Sierra metro station! Ouch…But……there was a car waiting to take us to the metro station. What a surprise! We quickly bought a few more packs of coffee to bring home and got in the small car. This was a very nice way to end the tour, with lots of ambiente due to the up beat Colombian music!

Arriving back in Medellín, we had much to catch up on. All three of us found it impressive to hear the stories about the history of the barrio and the finca “increíble.” And as often in Colombia, the people and their stories were the real highlight of the day; their perseverance to make something out of their former hopeless lives, the optimism and always…the sense of humor. Still full of impressions and feeling grateful that we had supported the local community with this tour, we headed back home.

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: June 2022

Information and tips: (June 2022)

  • Tour lasts half a day, from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.
  • Max. 10 participants
  • Price: COP150,000/$37.50 pp, payment in cash. A part of the proceeds is used to support social projects in the district.
  • You can’t visit Barrio La Sierra on your own. There is a neighborhood watch that keeps an eye on exactly who comes and goes, but if you go with Arturo, it’s no problem at all.
  • For more info, check out the website of Urban Coffeetour
  • Arturo is also doing a comuna graffiti tour in Comuna 13. Check out here for more info.
  • Check out more coffee tours in Medellín

More info on things to do in Medellín and more in our travel guide Medellín.

Shopping in Medellín

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Shopping in Medellín can be done in large luxury shopping centers, more intimate “green” malls and all kinds of specialized stores in el Centro. Two of the largest shopping malls, Viva Envigado and Mayorca Mega Plaza, are located in Envigado and in Sabaneta. Despite their location outside Medellín’s tourist center, these malls are easily accessible by subway. Some of the larger malls are also located in El Poblado and Laureles. Read on  for our shopping tips and for a list of the best shopping malls in Medellín.

5 shopping tips

1) Do you like large, upscale shopping malls?
Then check out the shopping malls in El Poblado like Santafé or Viva in Envigado

2) Would you prefer a smaller, intimate mall, where you can shop “green?”
Then Oviedo is probably more your thing. “Drive-thru” and dog friendly Oviedo is a beautiful mall. Everywhere you look you see plants! Besides stores of famous brands, you will find beautiful interior and antique shops and nice coffee shops. You can even read a book while chilling on a comfortable couch. Oviedo is located opposite Santafé on Avenida el Poblado and is easily recognised by the red “apple”!

3) Are you more of a bargain hunter?
Then shop at Mayorca Mega Plaza in Sabaneta or at Palacio Nacional in el Centro.

4) Eating in a food court with a view?
Then order your food in Santafé’s food court and grab a table on the terrace overlooking the city.

5) Do you need new glasses?
Then head to Centro Comercial Colombia Optico in el Centro. In this mall you will find numerous opticians and eyewear stores for a consultation. (Eye measurement and comprehensive eyewear advice) We paid COP30,000/$7.50 for this consultation and COP130,000/$32.50 for a pair of (monofocal) glasses, which were ready the same day. The service in this mall was top notch! Tip: el Centro is crowded and chaotic. If you shop here, pay extra close attention to your belongings.

Read on quickly for more info on the shopping malls and how to get there.

VIVA ENVIGADO

Largest mall in Colombia

  • Location: Envigado
  • Envigado metro station (line A) + 5 min. walk
  • Exito “Wow” store, Homecenter
  • Great Viva play park
  • Website: Viva Envigado

 

MAYORCA MEGA PLAZA

For the best bargains

  • Location: Sabaneta
  • Itagüí metro station (line A). Via pedestrian bridge to the mall
  • Outlet stores
  • Exito supermarket, Flamingo and Home Sentry
  • Happy City for the kids
  • Website: Mayorca Mega Plaza

EL TESORO

Shopping with a view

  • Location: El Poblado
  • El Poblado metro station (line A) + cab 15 min.
  • Mirador with a view
  • Carulla supermarket
  • Play park and Afterland amusement park
  • Website: El Tesoro

UNICENTRO

In the heart of the city

  • Location: Laureles
  • Metro station Industriales (line A) + cab (10 min.) or: Metroplús bus to Fatima station + 10 min. walk
  • Exito
  • Happyland play park
  • Website: Unicentro

SANTAFÉ

Shop in style

  • Location: El Poblado
  • Aguacatala metro station (Line A) + 15 min. walk
  • Jumbo supermarket
  • Falabella department store
  • I-shop (Apple store)
  • Nice outdoor terrace at food court, overlooking Medellín
  • Happy City and Extreme Zone
  • Website: Santafé

PALACIO NACIONAL

Scoring bargains at the old Palace of Justice

  • Location: El Centro
  • Metro stations Parque Berrio, San Antonio (line A) + 3-4 min. walk
  • Not a state-of-the-art mall like the other malls. You go here mostly for the architecture and atmosphere
  • More than 200 budget stores, with mostly clothing and shoes

Frequently Asked Questions about Medellín

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Here are answers to some frequently asked questions about Medellín: Is the weather nice? Is Medellín expensive? What about safety in Medellín? How long will I stay and what is the best time to go? If your question is not listed, feel free to get in touch!

Colombia My Way

Frequently Asked Questions about Medellín

Is the weather nice in Medellín?

Yes, the weather is nice in Medellín! The average temperature is around 22 degrees and there are no real seasons in Medellín, hence the nickname “city of eternal spring.” Eternal spring does not mean that it does not rain in Medellín. The weather is very changeable, so bring an umbrella anyway during the rainy season.

Most rain falls in the months of April, May, September and October and November. When it rains, it is mostly in the afternoon. During a trip we took to Medellín in April/May, it rained heavily, yet the rain didn’t spoil the trip. So if you are a bit flexible, you can also go to Medellín in these months.

What is the best time to travel to Medellín?

Medellín can be visited year-round, but extra fun if you make your trip around one of the many events, which draw people from Colombia itself and abroad.

June:
Festival Internacional de Tango
The largest Tango festival outside Argentina, with tango performances and tango lessons throughout the city in the streets and parks.

August:
Feria de las Flores
Medellín’s most spectacular festival. The festival lasts a week and highlight is the Desfile de silleteros. Hundreds of campesinos from around Medellín come to town, to show off their flowers during the giant flower parade.

September:
Festival International de Jazz
There are free concerts featuring local and international bands

December and 1st week of January:
El Alumbrado
Medellín is known as a true Christmas city, with the most spectacular Christmas lights in Colombia. The Christmas season begins on Dec. 7, but the lights are lit a week earlier and can be admired until the first week of January.

How long should i stay?

2-3 DAYS:

In 2 days you can see the most famous sights and grab a museum.

Do a city tour on day 1, then you will immediately have a handy introduction to the city. If you stay in the center, there are several museums you can visit, such as the Musea de Antioquia, with the work of Botero. On day 2, you can then go to the botanical garden, Parque Explora or take the cable car to Parque Arví, for example.

With a day or more added, you could go paragliding on Day 3, do a day of shopping, or do a day tour to Guatapé.

1 WEEK OR LONGER:

If you have longer, you can take a multi-day trip to one of the villages in the area, such as Jardin, Jericho or San Rafael. Check out this article for ideas for a trip to one of these quaint villages.

 

Is Medellín safe?

-Updated February 2025-

We have been to Medellín several times and have never felt unsafe. In the tourist locations, you will see a lot of police, which also makes you feel safe.

There are some things we do recommend if you go to Medellín:

  • Book a hotel or hostel in El Poblado or Laureles/Estadio, the safest neighborhoods in Medellín
  • Be careful in the city center (Candelaria) at night, including at Plaza Botero, Parque San Antonio and Parque de Bolivar. Better use cabs if you have to be here at night
  • Don’t use dating apps to meet people. Gangs are active in Medellín that use dating apps to lure men and then rob them, in some cases fatally. Some of the murders took place in the El Poblado and Laureles/Estadio neighborhoods, which are usually known as very safe. In many nightlife robberies, Scopolamine is used. This is an intoxicant that is virtually odorless and can easily be added to drinks
  • Do not accept drinks from strangers
  • Don’t go into the suburbs
  • Pin your first pesos safely at the airport or inside a large supermarket, drugstore or mall
  • Leave gold jewelry at home
  • Carry your bag in front of you
  • Don’t show your phone, not even when you are in the taxi, especially in a busy area such as el Centro.
  • Traveling by subway is safe in Medellín, but during rush hour (5-7 p.m.) it is very crowded and hectic, making it easy for pickpockets to get in and out. Tip from a local if you take the subway during rush hour: when entering the subway, stand resolutely against the wall on the left immediately, so you won’t give pickpockets a chance.

For general information on safe travel in Colombia, visit this link.

Is Medellín expensive?

Compared to less touristy cities in Colombia, such as Cali and Barranquilla, Medellín is more expensive. If you compare it to North America and Europe, most things in Medellín are cheap.

Prices of accommodations range from just under $10 for a dorm bed in a hostel to over $100 for a luxury hotel. For about $50 you can have a very comfortable and spacious hotel or apartment in a good location in Medellín.

You can get a short cab ride via a cab app for as little as $3, and a ride on the subway costs around $1.

Eating out can be as expensive as you want and also depends on the location. In the Laureles/Estadio district, we found the food a lot cheaper than in El Poblado. Then again, a good (generous portion) steak in a prime location in el Poblado cost 15$. This fresh salmon trout in Santa Elena cost 7$. You can have a comida coriente (lunch day menu) for about $5.

Even when shopping at the supermarket, you can make it as expensive as you want. Supermarket Carulla is one of the more expensive supermarkets with a nice assortment, with many imported products.

Bueno y Justo is a convenience store where you can get cheaper groceries, but you’ll find them mostly in the more local neighborhoods. In the tourist locations you will find Exito and Jumbo which are cheaper than Carulla.