Bogotá: from waltz to Taj Mahal

A family trip to Bogotá, full of music and sightseeing

Our trip to Bogotá in September 2024, was a very special one. The purpose of the trip was to fulfill the biggest dream of my travel partners (Colombian) father to attend a concert by André Rieu and his orchestra in Bogotá.

Because we live in Curaçao and father Antonio and his wife Alix live in the coastal city of Barranquilla, we flew separately to Bogotá, where we rented an apartment had booked an apartment in the neighborhood Chico Norte. We arrived on Sunday and they on Monday, so we had all the time to settle in the comfortable appartment, with a common roof terrace with cityview. 

Next to the apartment complex is café Culto, a nice place for a good breakfast, fresh juices or a cappuccino with something tasty from the bakery. You can also go there for lunch or dinner.

On Monday, we went to pick up Antonio and Alix at El Dorado airport. With flowers and an André Rieu scarf, we were waiting for the family.  The reunion was priceless!

Antonio couldn’t wait for the day of the concert to arrive! To make most of our time in Bogotá, we planned several outings, such as a shopping day at the outlets on Avenida de las Americas and a visit to the historic center and Monserrate on the day of the concert.

Furthermore, we went on a day trip to Jaime Duque park and the salt cathedral of Zipaquirá, where we wanted to visit the newest extension -the underground museum.

On September 18, the time had finally come. The concert was scheduled to begin at 8 p.m. and the doors opened at 5 p.m., giving us the entire morning and afternoon for our sightseeing trip. We would then still have plenty of time to get ready for the concert and to be at the Movistar Arena at 6 p.m…..But that schedule didn’t work out at all!

Still fresh and fruity, we began our city walk in the morning in La Candelaria. The first stop was Museo Botero.

We are fans of Fernando Botero and had already seen his “oversized” sculptures in Medellín and this (free) museum was also worth seeing. After this we walked through the iconic restaurant La Puerta Falsa, Plaza de Bolívar and the busy Séptima to the Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo, the place where Bogotá was founded in 1538.

The last part was uphill and we made a break to catch our breath at Cacao y Cacao.

Around Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo you can see lots of colorful street art, some more colorful than others.

The objects of the murals range from early indigenous residents to the flora and fauna and social aspects of life in Colombia. You will also find cafes where you can try the traditional drink Chicha, a fermented drink made from corn. Calle del Embudo in particular is a fun and colorful street.

Finally, we decided it was time to order an Uber, which picked us up at 12:30 p.m. at Calle del Embudo and dropped us off at the entrance to Monserrate. What we hadn’t counted on was that there was a mega crowd at Monserrate, probably because the funicular (the little train) was under maintenance and everyone had to go by cable car. Both up and down there was a huge line.

By the way, you can avoid that queue by buying a fastpass ticket of COP81,000/$20 instead of the regular tickets a COP29,500/$7.50, but we found that to be a big difference for 4 people. Moreover, the line didn’t seem to be too bad from outside, but what we couldn’t see was that it was also completely full inside. So if it fits your budget, then such a fast pass ticket is definitely worth it!

When we finally got to the top, the view was amazing.

We had lunch in Santa Clara restaurant, which was serves specialties from the different regions of Colombia. We chose the Posta Negra Cartagenera, tender beef in a sauce of panela (cane sugar), coconut rice and stewed banana. Topped with a glass of Sangria, this was a success.

After dinner we actually wanted to walk around for a while, but the line for the teleférico back was so long that we decided to get in line right away.

At 4:30pm we began to pick up speed and were almost at the cable car. Finally, we were in the cab at 5:15pm and drove -in rush hour- to the hotel, where we arrived at 6pm. At 6:30pm we were picked up and taken to the Movistar Arena, where we finally arrived well ahead of time.

The concert was beyond my expectations. I am not a real Andre Rieu fan myself, but the show was great and Father Antonio’s smiling face priceless!

One of the highlights was the performance of Colombian boy Daniel Sanabria. He stole the show 5 years ago, when during André Rieu’s performance the power went out and he spontaneously started playing on a plastic flute. André Rieu then bought him a real flute, on which he began practicing fanatically. Now he got to perform for the home audience and would continue to do so on the other 3 nights in Bogotá, as a full member of the Johan Strauss Orchestra! Check here the video of Daniel’s performance.

The next day was our last day in Bogotá, before the family returned to Barranquilla. We stayed another week to tour the Quindío region in the Colombian coffee triangle. That’s why we decided to end our last day with a day trip to the Cathedral de Sal in Zipaquirá and Jaime Duque Park, which is 9 kilometers from Zipaquirá.

We had been to Zipaquirá before, but since the new underground museum opened this year, we wanted to go there again. therefore hired a cab driver for the day. We had taken this cab before and the driver had prepared well. In his (comfortable) cab we could hear a concert of André Rieu in Vienna -:) The ride took about 45 minutes and it was a relief to walk in the spacious park, with its beautiful gardens and ample habitats for the animals. The most striking building in the park was a replica of the Taj Mahal from India! After Jaime Duque park, we left for the town of Zipaquirá, where we stopped at the beautiful square.

Zipaquirá seems like a nice town to stay in during a round trip through Colombia. We saw a few hotels in the historic center that looked nice, such as  hotel Camino de la Sal.

We decided to follow our driver’s advice and have lunch at a restaurant near the salt cathedral: Alma Llanera. We did not regret this, because the restaurant was funny to see with all kinds of fun decorations and live music, which quickly set the mood. The food was very good, we had ordered several dishes, from avocado salad, to Aijaco (soup) and grilled meat.

Tip: if you go there for lunch and then to the salt cathedral, you can buy the tickets at the restaurant. With the tickets already in our pocket, we left for the salt cathedral of Zipaquirá. The cathedral was -also the second time- impressive.

After a wonderfully long day full of impressions, it was time to pack our bags for our flight the next day to Armenia in the coffee region. The last night with the family we talked a lot about the special trip and we were invited to visit the family next year in Barranquilla.


Written by Jeanette
Travel period: September 2024

Check here for more info on Bogotá and surroundings and other destinations in Colombia.

Here you can read our other travel stories about Bogotá. Check here the options if you want to do an organized tour or private trip to Catedral de Sal in Zipaquirá , Parque Jaime Duque or Guatavita.

ColombiaMyWay

Chapinero tour: coffee, culture and Tejo

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Tour with a local in trendy Chapinero, Bogotá

During our previous trips to Bogotá, we had already seen the well-known tourist sights, such as historic center La Candelaria, Cerro Monserrate and the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá. Therefore, during our trip in September 2024, we were looking for something else to do. Our eye fell on the Chapinero hotspots and Coolture tour with a local guide. Chapinero is a centrally located neighborhood in northeastern Bogotá between La Candelaria to the south and the Zona Rosa (Zona T) to the north.

Chapinero Alto is known for its hip vibe and its many creative stores, restaurants and cafes. Vogue magazine even called Chapinero Alto the Williamsburg of Bogotá (a trendy neighborhood in New York).

The starting point of the tour was Almendro Repostería Artesanal, a cafe a 15-minute drive from our hotel in Teusaquillo. On our way to Almendro we drove through Chapinero Central, a busy neighborhood with many stores. It didn’t seem like the best neighborhood, but at one point we went uphill across an intersection and here we saw the busy neighborhood turn into a quiet residential area.

Our Uber dropped us off at the Repostería. We were quite early and waited at a table for guide Angela. In the café we could see right away, that Chapinero Alto is a trendy neighborhood. There were mostly hip, young people here. Given the several laptops, we noticed that Almendro is popular with digital nomads. Angela soon came in and introduced herself. She is a born and raised Rolo (native of Bogotá) who lived in Chapinero Alto for 5 years. She works as an IT designer and owns her own tour company, for which she gives tours in her spare time. In addition to this Chapinero hotspots and Coolture tour, she also does a Chapinero cocktail tour and a hotspots and Coolture tour in Usaquén, where she lives these days. We turned out to be the only two participants on the tour and Angela invited us to choose something delicious from the menu. We chose a cappuccino with a Media Luna (croissant).


Over dinner, Angela explained that Chapinero Alto is a popular place with families and expats. Singles also like living in Chapinero Alto because there are many social things to do and fun places to meet people. From Almendro we walked to the bookstore/publishing house Santo and Seña where we were given a guided tour. In addition to a large collection of Spanish-language books, there was a small collection of English-language books, vinyl records and even cassette tapes!

Angela also showed us a booklet of cartoons about the famous Colombian writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez. The cartoons tell the story of the writer before he became famous. Because Gabriel Garcia Marquez and his family had little financial resources, he had sent only the second (last part) of his first book to an Argentinian publisher. The latter was so enthusiastic, that he sent money to send the first part of the book. And the rest is history!

Boutique Mapa is a beautiful store  selling jewelry, clothing and art by local designers. The unique shoes especially stood out. Varietal was our next stop. This is a well-known café in Bogotá, with several branches. We had our second cup of coffee of the morning on the cozy outdoor terrace.

On the bench in the garden we found Mafalda, a popular Argentinian cartoon character. Mafalda is concerned about world peace and has an innocent but serious attitude toward important problems. She plays an important role in Latin America’s long tradition of political satire.

Metkalu is the local “market,” where many local brands and organic products are sold. We found several interesting products, but because of our (already full) suitcases, we couldn’t buy too much. We bought tea made from cocoa and copoazú, a fruit from the Amazon (family of cocoa). We also couldn’t resist the soursop marmalade.

We really enjoyed walking around Chapinero Alto, with its up and down streets and English architecture.

You will find a mix of modern apartment buildings and old residential houses.

Angela explained that rents in Chapinero Alto have risen significantly in recent years and that many residential houses have been turned into restaurants and stores. The older houses are very spacious and different entrepreneurs can share the spaces with each other to reduce costs.

It is a cozy neighborhood, with an artistic vibe, fun neighborhood stores and a wide selection of restaurants and cafes.

In Chapinero Alto you can eat Japanese and Mexican food and order a real eclair or quiche from a French bakery.

In addition, there are several vegetarian restaurants, like Mesa Salvaje, which is also known for its delicious coffee. If you are vegan or vegetarian, then Angela’s veggie tour in Chapinero might be something for you.

We walked past the HAB Hotel, a boutique hotel located in a beautiful, stylish building. The HAB café is the hotel’s restaurant, which is also popular with locals. If you stay at the HAB hotel, you have more than enough culinary choices anyway, with several restaurants and cafes within walking distance.

For our next and final stop, we walked through Parque de los Hippies to Tejo Turmeque, a walk of about 10 minutes. Parque de los Hippies is -like the Santa Fe neighborhood- a “zona de tolerancia” which means that things that are not allowed elsewhere, such as drugs and prostitution, are tolerated here. By the way, Parque de Hippies is not a real park with greenery, it is more like a square where people gather and teens come to skateboard. In late 2019, Chapinero was the center of anti-government demonstrations. Concerts and other events were held in Parque de los Hippies.

Totally unexpectedly, Angela entered a doorway to Tejo Turmeque, a place we would never have found on our own! The street that Tejo Turmeque is on also had a somewhat “shady” feel to it. According to Angela, it is safe during the day, but not a nice place to walk around late at night. Playing Tejo had been on our wish list for a long time and now we had the chance! We were first given an explanation of the game, where you have to throw steel discs as close as possible to the center of a slab of clay. Then you get the most points.


Here you throw from a distance of 15 meters. If you throw on the paper envelopes filled with gunpowder, a big bang follows and you get extra points.

Of course, that was the thrill of the game! It took some practice, but we managed to hit well a few times.


It is said that the origin of the game lies with the Muisca Indians, who used gold discs during rituals.

Throwing the disc, we thought was a bit like bowling, but more exciting! Tejo’s main “rule” is: The more beer you drink, the better it goes -:)

We kept it to 2 beers, but nevertheless it went quite nicely for the first time! What a great experience to play this game, the three of us had a lot of fun. Next to us were 4 locals playing, which also went quite fanatically. In a larger group this will undoubtedly be fun too, with the competitive element!

The Tejo was the end of the tour and we enjoyed it! It was very nice to get to know a different part of Bogotá with a local, who not only knows the nicest spots, but is also familiar with the history of the neighborhood. Moreover, Angela is an interesting personality with a broad interest which allowed us to talk about all kinds of things, not only about Chapinero and Bogotá, but also about other places in Colombia, Europe and our home base Curaçao. In short: highly recommended if you are in Bogotá and want to do something fun that is not on the traditional tourist route!

Travel Date September 2024
Written by Jeanette

#ColombiaMyWay tips & practical information

  • The tour lasts 3 hours and there are different departure times each day. Departure is from Chapinero Alto
  • Tip: If you want to do the Tejo, you can only do it on tours starting at 2 p.m., Thursday through Saturday. On the other days, the tour ends with a cocktail. When booking, mention explicitly that you want to do the Tejo.
  • An Uber from La Candelaria / Teusaquillo takes about 15min. We came from Teusaquillo and paid COP13,500/$3.50 for the Uber.
  • Drinks and snacks are included, as are 2 beers at the Tejo. We found this more than sufficient, but if you want to order additional (alcoholic) drinks and food, this is at your own expense.
  • Check out here for more information and to make a reservation
  • Want to stay in this trendy neighborhood? Then check here your options for hotels and hostels in Chapinero.

On tour in Los Nevados National Park

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A drive through the various ecosystems of Los Nevados National Park

During my trip to the hotel Termales del Ruiz in the coffee region, I did not want to miss the opportunity to visit Los Nevados National Park, “home to” the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima and Nevado del Santa Isabel, whose glacier can be climbed.

Now I do have an adventurous spirit, but trekking to a glacier, is not my thing. For that matter, I wouldn’t have the guts to embark on such an (icy) adventure either!

A car ride in the park, therefore, seemed like the perfect, alternative option for me to be able to see something of the park. The hotel arranged a private trip for me with Edoardo, a retired employee of Los Nevados National park. For this busy bee, sitting still is not an option, which is why he and his wife also run their own hostel. I expected Edoardo to be an excellent driver and conversation partner for the trip. He did not speak English, so I could practice my Spanish enough during the trip.

Edoardo came to pick me up at the appointed time and we drove early to the Brisas entrance of Los Nevados national park, an 8 km drive.

Here began a rather complicated registration procedure, as I had to pay at 3 different counters: for the car, for the guide in the park and for the mandatory insurance. After this I was given a green wristband and after the whole payment procedure, there followed a mandatory movie and briefing about the park.

This was held in a stone cold room, so I was glad when the car ride could finally begin! The guide led the way with his own car and we, along with a few other cars, drove -in the fog- after the guide.

During the briefing, it had been explained to us, that during the 5 km ride, we would pass several ecosystems. At the first stop Aguacerales, at 4160 meters, we saw another beautiful green landscape.

After this, the route gradually went up and the landscape changed to the Páramo and super Páramo landscape, with mostly rocks and sand. Characteristic of the Páramo, are the unusual Frailejones trees, which can reach 12 meters in height.

During each stop, the Ecosistemas guide gave a passionate explanation of the flora and fauna of the area. After this, we were able to walk around a bit and take pictures of the changing vegetation, such as here at the Parador at 4290 meters.

At the third stop at the Valles Lunares -the name says it-, there was nothing more to see than a lunar landscape.

After this we left for our final stop, the Valle de Tumbas, at 4450 meters. Here the guide told us the gruesome story of the eruption of volcano Nevado del Ruiz in 1985. This disaster devastated the town of Armero, killing more than 25,000 people.

Due to volcanic activity, a code yellow was in effect during our visit and the viewpoint at Nevado del Ruiz (5100 meters) was closed. Cameras, among others, are closely monitoring the situation.

At the Valle de Tumbas, the traces of the lava flows were still clearly visible. Very impressive to stand here and know what tragedy had occurred -:( Everyone in the group was really silent for a moment. After the last stop, the small “caravan” left again for the exit.

After the car tour, Edoardo asked if I was hungry and I certainly was! Mountain air makes one hungry and just the thought of a nice bowl of hot soup made my mouth water. Edoardo told me that his wife Sandra Patricia cooks the most delicious dishes for guests from the hostel and day-trippers who go to Los Nevados National Park. I was up for that, but first I was given a cup of tea with coca leaves, which Edoardo said was the perfect remedy for altitude sickness.

Not much later, I was sitting behind a steaming bowl of soup. This was followed by tasty fish (my favorite, trucha= trout) and a nice dessert.

After this delicious meal that cost less than 7 dollars, proud Edoardo -together with his granddaughter- gave me a tour of the hostel called Mirador del Kumanday.

After a “photo shoot,” it was time to head back to hotel Termales del Ruiz. Since the granddaughter had never been to the hotel before, it was my turn for a tour of the thermal baths. As a surprise, I bought her some chocolates at the hotel, which she chewed up gratefully.

When I reconnected with Edoardo six months later, he told me that his hostel had now expanded with a cabaña -with a view of the volcano- named El Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion).

Curious about this adventurous accommodation? Check their facebook page of Glamping Leon Dormido.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019

#ColombiaMyWay tips

Information (Updated: August 2023)

  • The Brisas entrance is a 1.5h-2h drive from Manizales and 8km from hotel Termales del Ruiz. There is no public transportation to the park, you get there by your own or private transport
  • Open daily from 8am-14pm. At 3:30pm all visitors must have left the park
  • The car route takes 2-3 hours including stops. Are you prone to altitude sickness? Then drive with the windows slightly open, it makes a difference!
  • Guide of the park is mandatory. For safety reasons, the rule is applied, that at least 1 guide for every 2 cars enters the park.
  • Prices (2023): Park entrance COP54,000 pp, car COP8000, guide COP15000, insurance COP5000. Bring an id with you for registration
  • You have the greatest chance of good weather in the dry season from mid-Dec to late February and July, August
  • During this drive, there is no access to Nevado del Ruiz. You cannot see snow from this entrance and you cannot do any hikes or treks. Follow the link for treks to the glaciers in los Nevados National park,
  • Want to know more about the park? Check out the facebook page Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados
  • Before planning a trip, check the current status of the active volcano Nevado del Ruiz. If there is increased activity, the park will be closed.

Movie Tip
The impressive film Armero, tells the story of Omaira, who experienced and survived the volcanic eruption. The film adaptation of the disaster can be seen on Netflix (Spanish, with English subtitles). Watch the trailer here.

Here you can read about our off the beaten track trip to hotel Termales del Ruiz.

Check out our travel guide Coffee Triangle for more information on Colombia’s coffee region. If you are traveling from the coffee region on to Jardín or Medellín, check out our travel guide Medellín and surroundings.

Off-the-beaten-track trip to Termales del Ruiz

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My trip to the only hotel near los Nevados National Park

In planning my trip to the famous coffee region of Colombia, the Zona Cafetera / Eje Cafetero (coffee triangle), I did not initially think of visiting Hotel Termales del Ruiz, a hotel at 3,500 meters altitude near the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz.

More I thought about…. doing a tour on a coffee plantation, staying overnight in a coffee finca and especially drinking lots of cups of the delicious “black gold” …

But, as I was doing some surfing on the site of booking.com, the hotel immediately caught my attention. Hotel Termales del Ruiz is a former ski resort and the only hotel near los Nevados National Park. Its location in a nature reserve and the 2 thermal pools made the hotel completely attractive!

The exciting idea of staying so close to the active volcano Nevado del Ruiz did not let me go and when I read that I could book a day trip to the park from the hotel, I was sold and booked 3 nights.

Thus my itinerary in the coffee triangle was complete: flight from Bogotá to Pereira, on to Hotel Hacienda Combia in Calarcá, after this via Santa Rosa de Cabal to Hotel Termales del Ruiz and flying back via Manizales to Bogotá.

After our visit to the Anato -tourism fair in Bogotá and a few wonderful days at the coffee finca in Calarcá, we continued our journey to Santa Rosa de Cabal, starting point for the trip to Termales del Ruiz.

From Santa Rosa de Cabal, my travel companion was going back to Curaçao and I would continue on my own. A severe throat infection almost ruined my plans, but after an emergency consultation with the Angeles al Llamado and a few days of rest in Santa Rosa de Cabal, the (long) car ride to Termales del Ruiz could begin.

Just to get there was an adventure in itself. From Manizales to Termales del Ruiz, the road climbed slowly and the green landscape turned into the páramo landscape with the extraordinary Frailejones trees.

Along the way, we made a stop to enjoy an arepa de chocolo and chocolate caliente. The hot chocolate was especially welcome as it was getting pretty chilly.

With the counter on 3476 meters, we were almost there.

It was almost unreal to see the hotel in the “middle of nowhere.” Up to this moment, I was used to mostly fresh green plains in the coffee region, but here we were really in the mountains.

After the driver dropped me off at the hotel, I went to check in….brr it was soo cold! There was no heater at the front desk and this “Dutch Caribbean girl” was happy to go to the room and turn on the heater. Surely these were different temperatures from the 30 degrees on my island in the Caribbean Sea! A bathrobe was already waiting for me in the room and I immediately wanted to jump into the warm water.

I naively thought at first that I could walk out to the bathtub in my bathrobe, but I really couldn’t. It was sooo cold! I quickly turned around, went back to the room and put on my thick coat. I changed clothes downstairs in the locker room. The feeling of sliding my cold body into the hot bath was amazing. An employee of the hotel came to ask if I wanted something to drink and I thought a vino caliente (hot red wine) was fitting in the whole experience -:).

In the evening, I settled myself in front of the fireplace in the restaurant and thought about the day over an aromático (herbal tea).

The next morning I joined a tour of the bird sanctuary.

During the hike, the hummingbirds were the star of the show. It was easy to see, that the reserve is a hot spot among birdwatchers and photographers, because one photographer had an even bigger lens than the other! Not surprising, considering that there are over 160 species of birds in the nature reserve.

With my smartphone I also managed to take pictures of the hummingbirds, but I liked it better to explore the reserve itself -without the photo shoots- and so I did in the afternoon.

There were trails past viewpoints and small waterfalls, and there was a nice chill spot with a view.

The first day at Termales del Ruiz was more than successful!

On to the next day, with a new adventure, the private tour to Los Nevados National Park.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019

#Colombia tips (Updated: June 2024)

  • Check here for more info about hotel Termales del Ruiz
  • Prior to your trip, we recommend to stay in a place that is already a bit higher, between 1500 and 2500 meters, such as Manizales or Santa Rosa de Cabal. This will allow your body to gradually get used to the altitude.
  • The hotel is very remote and no public transportation goes there. You can only get there by your own car or by private transportation. I had arranged a private driver through the hotel in Santa Rosa de Cabal, but Manizales is closer (approx. 1.5h)
  • You go to Termales del Ruiz to relax, hike in the bird sanctuary and take a trip to PNN los Nevados (car ride in the park of 5km, with no hike or trek). There is nothing else to do, unless you are a cycling fanatic and like sporty Colombians want to take a mountain bike ride to Los Nevados National Park.
  • I stayed in a room with great views of the mountains and thermal pools, but not all rooms have this view. Ask about this if you want to make a reservation.
  • There is heating in the hotel rooms, but not in the restaurant or other public areas of the hotel. Therefore, bring a nice thick sweater or coat.
  • If you’re traveling back to Manizales on a Sunday, make a stop in the village of Termales. On Sundays, all the BBQ restaurants are open and it’s quite a happening to go there for lunch. Whole families go out to grab a bite to eat at their favorite little restaurant, especially the specialty Chorizo is very popular.

Check out our travel guide Coffee Triangle for more information on Colombia’s coffee region. If you are traveling from the coffee region on to Jardín or Medellín, check out our travel guide Medellín and surroundings.

Free El Poblado tour-Medellín

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Free El Poblado tour-Medellín

El Poblado is the most popular neighborhood in Medellín. For us, it was now the second time we had been there. And yet much was still unknown to us about this tourist area. We didn’t really know more than Lleras park, the Milla de Oro and Parque El Poblado. Honestly, we never thought about the origins of El Poblado. The (fairly new) free El Poblado tour, was therefore the perfect opportunity to learn more about Medellín’s most popular neighborhood.

We scheduled the tour on our first day in El Poblado. After registering ourselves through Beyond Colombia’s website and receiving a confirmation via email 1 day before the tour, we reported to Parque Poblado at 4 p.m. We were ready to go!


We were lucky because besides the two of us, there was only 1 other participant for the tour in English. The group for the Spanish-language tour was big, with a large group of tourists from Argentina. Together with our guide Natalia and Heather, we started the tour. Heather was an American, who traveled the world by motorcycle and was now staying in Medellín for a while to get her motorcycle repaired. Before leaving, we paused at the monument honoring Medellín’s first colonial settlement, founded in 1616 on the site where Parque El Poblado is today.


We liked not having to walk in a “herd” behind our guide, which also allowed us to stay a little longer at a particular stop. Like at the first stop, a micro beer brewery, just around the corner from Parque El Poblado. Here they brew beers with unusual flavors, such as coconut and Jack daniels. After Natalia delighted us with the explanation of the different beer flavors, she wanted to keep walking, but of course we put a stop to that -:). We were not leaving without tasting a beer! In connection with the elections the next day, no alcohol was allowed to be served from 6 p.m. onwards. So we were just in time!


With the beer in our hand, we walked on to the Calle 10 and stopped at a beautiful mural titled Medallo, “code name” among graffiti artists for Medellín.


After this, we walked on to a beautiful vantage point in El parque de la Bailarina, in the Astorga neighborhood.


The park is like an oasis in the city and is home to as many as 30 species of birds, including the Yellow-winged Macaw. Despite the park’s beauty, it has a tragic history. The park is dedicated to Isabel Cristina Restrepo Cárdenas, the best dancer in Medellín’s classical ballet, who was murdered in 2008.


Near the park, we stopped at Colombia’s only restaurant with a Michelin star; El Cielo. This was very special for us, because we really wanted to eat here, but couldn’t get a table. Despite the high prices, restaurant el Cielo is fully booked months in advance!


We walked on to Lleras park and it was lovely to walk among all that greenery, with vantage points on streams and rivers.


There was even a coffee plant to be seen in all that greenery.


We made a break at a statue of Mary, where Natalia explained to us why statues of Mary were placed in Medellín, in places such as parks and subway stations. During the drug conflict, this was done to counter violence. How could a statue of the Virgin Mary do that? The reasoning behind this is that even the biggest criminal loves his mother. By placing images of the “mother of all mothers,” there would be less violence in these places!


At the vía Primavera, Natalia showed us some stores, with locally made clothes. She also made some recommendations for the best coffee (Cafe Pergamino) and the best ice cream in Medellín (Amor Acuyá). Such a tasty ice cream was very tempting, but due to the long line, we decided to pass.


At the actual (lleras) park that is currently being renovated, Natalia explained that -because of the renovation- the locals’ nightlife has largely moved to the vía Provenza.


However, we still found it very lively and cozy in Lleras park with live music and lots of restaurants and cafes.

At the end of the free El Poblado tour, Natalia showed us some photos of the old El Poblado, before it was filled with high-rise buildings for rich Colombians in the 1970s and drug lord Escobar laundered his money there. What a difference!


After giving Natalia a (well-deserved) tip, everyone went their separate ways and we decided to have another drink at the Envy Rooftop Bar in the Charlee hotel. The view there was said to be amazing and yes it was indeed!


With a coconut lemonade (no piña colada because of prohibition -:)) we toasted to el Poblado. Learned a lot about the (not always beautiful) history of El Poblado and got many tips for the nicest places to eat and drink. What a wonderful first day of our stay in Medellín!

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: June 2022

Information and tips (June 2022)

The tour
Before the tour began, we really had no idea what to expect from it, but we were pleasantly surprised. The tour lasted 3 hours and the tour guide really took her time. It was a perfect mix of information and walking. After the tour, we had a much better understanding of the scope of the neighborhoods and saw that there is so much more to the city than the tourist “hype” alone. The tour is based on gratuity. Guideline is around COP40,000, about $10. For more info, check out the website of Beyond Colombia.

#Colombia tips

#1 Do the tour at the beginning of your trip!
We got lots of tips during the tour for great restaurants etc. If you do the tour at the beginning of your stay in El Poblado, you can take full advantage of those tips

#2 Sample a locally brewed beer
Our favorite at Barrica cervezeria was the coconut-flavored beer. We paid COP15000 each, about $4

#3 Check out our travel guide Medellín for more tips on fun things to do and the best restaurants and cafes. Check here for more city tours in Medellin.

Short city break to Bogotá

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Short city break to Bogotá

In Bogotá, it is incredibly rainy and cold. There. That’s out. And that’s the end of it. After all, as a born “Dutchie”, I am used to a good portion of cold. Brrr! But now I have been living on sun-drenched Curaçao for 16.5 years. Very hot-pfff. In short: it is never good, or: I am just a nag. Or both. Anyway: This Happy Grouch went on a short city trip to Bogotá with her family, for the first time. The travel period was a midweek in the Easter vacations.

Knowing Colombia only from sunny Medellín, I understood that I had to dress for Bogotá. So the heels, shirts and skirts went out of the suitcase; the fleece sweater, jeans, sneakers and socks were packed. And that turned out to be a very good decision. Because in Bogotá, surrounded by mountains, there is a lot to see and discover. And for that you need practical clothing.

I stayed with my family in a lovely, pleasant, fairly small hotel (“Hotel Jazz Apartments), located in Parque Virrey; a beautiful residential/work/walking area on one of Bogotá’s many parks.

As far as I am concerned, this is a lovely part of the immense metropolis; a nice park on the doorstep, well-maintained, orderly, lively but also quiet, with the shopping street, coffee bars and restaurants within walking distance. AND thanks to the rain, everything was beautifully green and in bloom.

It is definitely an area for the well suited residents, with its many exclusive stores, restaurants and…. dogs. Oh, those dogs! In large numbers you see them walking with their dog walkers or owners, not infrequently dressed in “doggie designer clothes”! It is a wonderfully cheerful sight.

After a good breakfast from the small,- but surprisingly extensive & creative buffet in the cozy hotel (with its simple but nice rooms and very nice beds!), we went for our daily cup of cappuccino to the Illy Bar around the corner.

From there we set off on a beautiful walking route through the park, past bright flower-stalls, to the long shopping street. Small stores and eateries alternated with upscale designer stores and exclusive restaurants.

Once you arrive in the heart of the shop & dine area (about 20 min.walk), you will find 2 medium-sized shopping malls of the more exclusive kind: Andino Mall and El Retiro Mall.

What stands out there is that -in addition to the usual shops- there are public craft and art exhibitions. Bogotá is proud of its local products and artists, which is very nice to see. Prices in these malls range from quite pricey to quite affordable. These are -except for the lunchrooms- no cheap malls, but in other parts of the city you can find them.

In the afternoon hours it was a delight to visit the many restaurants. Cheap and expensive eateries alternate here. For people with special dietary needs (like myself), the selection in such a metropolis is a bit disappointing, but the quality is usually good to very good. Even in the small eateries.


It is highly recommended to visit the historic district of La Candelaria. Not because it is so much more beautiful there, but because of the historic buildings, the narrow alleys, and the unique atmosphere. It can be reached by taxi or Uber; the trip took about 45 min. Taxis are very affordable, but do pick a licensed company (with taxi numbers & plates).

One disadvantage is that it is a lot more crowded and touristy, with an abundance of similar stalls with pushy salesmen. They are nice though, and leave you alone as soon as you tell them to. Something else that was unfortunate was the fact that we were not allowed to enter the Museo d’Oro – the Gold Museum. It was in the latter days of the Corona pandemia, and our son had only a recovery,-but no vaccination certificate. That wasn’t a problem anywhere, just in the Gold museum. But that was soon forgotten after a visit to the large, cozy square with its terraces and a remarkably talented street musician (the conservatory was nearby; lucky us!).

After visiting La Candelaria, we walked on to downtown Bogotá……very overwhelming! And not necessarily in positive in. But of course that remains a matter of taste and feeling. The traffic is extremely busy, and there are many people, cheap stores and fast food restaurants. The friendliness of most people you experience further afield in Bogotá (& Colombia) is significantly less here. Realize, you are in a metropolis, with the frenzy, crowds, traffic chaos and stress that comes with it.

I was soon completely fed up, but we could only find a taxi for the way back after a long search. (Public transport is also well organized there, but we deliberately chose taxi transport that day). Tired but satisfied, we finally drove back. We spent most of the evenings in the hotel after visiting restaurants. It was very convenient that there was a Starbucks across the street, for a late after-dinner espresso….

After 5 wonderful days, we said goodbye to the friendly hotel staff, and traveled back to our sunny little island. With a little regret in our hearts…. We would have liked to have seen a bit more of this large, diverse city with all its sights, but in itself Bogotá is very well suited for a short city trip.

We are happy with our visit to Bogotá, and have fond memories of it, as well as the wonderful, innovative Medellín. Colombia continues to surprise us, and we would love to explore it further!


Travel date April 2022
Written by Niki

#ColombiaMyWay tips

#1 Take it easy the first day in Bogotá so your body can get used to the altitude difference

#2 Check the link Hotel Jazz Apartments for more info on the hotel where we stayed.

#3 More hotels around Parque Virrey can be found here.

#4 Prefer to explore Bogotá’s city center with a guide? Then check here the options.