horseback riding – Llanera for a day

Los Llanos Orientales, Travel Stories

The ride with my horse Fatima, was nice and relaxed. We rode along the river, across the dry plains and through the forest. Quite unexpectedly, we saw an armadillo in the bushes. Like the giant anteater, this is a nocturnal animal, so we were lucky!

Today I went horseback riding with Dutch couple Ted and Anneke, their Colombian translator Gabriela and our “cowboys.” The horseback riding started with a slight delay; someone had forgotten to close the gate the night before, so some of the horses had run away. So we had to wait a while until the horses returned -:) After I put myself-not too charmingly-on my horse, the new adventure could begin.

We had chosen a short, not too strenuous ride. Gabriela quickly proved to be an experienced rider, but for the rest of us it took some getting used to again. It had been a while since we had ridden.

Armadillo
The ride with my horse Fatima, was nice and relaxed. We rode along the river, across the plains and through the forest.

Quite unexpectedly, we saw an armadillo in the bushes. This is a nocturnal animal, so we were lucky! The armadillo quickly hid again, but we could clearly see the carapace.

Fatima
Despite the fact that I had not ridden for a long time, riding went very well and I secretly regretted a little bit that I had chosen the short ride. I enjoyed riding and admiring the landschape around me. After it was time to say goodbye to Fatima, I promised myself to go for another ride soon.

Llanero music
After horseback riding, we were able to stay in the Llanero atmosphere for a while. Since Ted, Anneke and Gabriela were going back to Yopal that afternoon, there was a farewell with a demonstration of the música Llanera, the Joropo. In this typical music of the Llanos, the harp places an important role and the songs about life on the Llanos are performed passionately.

Chico
Chico was the dancer and singer of the show, but I heard that he would also be a good guide. That came in handy, because I was going to take a walk in the forest with him later that day.

During the hike, Chico explained to me all kinds of things about the different plants and trees and how the Indigenas used to use them. For example, he showed how spears were made from tree branches and which trees were used for cremes for their faces.

During the walk, Chico he also told me about his life as a Llanero. I was struck by how humble he was, just like the other Llaneros I met before. At the same time, Chico was full of passion when he talked about working with the horses and about nature on the Llanos.

Meanwhile, he was removing very small ticks from my pants, which were so small that I hadn’t even seen them myself. In the dry season, ticks are common in certain parts of the forest.

Howler monkey family
At one point we heard something in the trees and then Chico pointed to a group of howler monkeys, known in Colombia as monos aulladores. We saw a whole family with mother and little ones. The male was chilling out and stayed in the same spot for a while. We stayed very quiet and could observe him very well. What an extraordinary experience!

On the way back, we saw a turtle crossing the path of a capybara, which left the capybara totally cold -:) After a nice walk, we boarded the boat again, back to the lodge.

The rest of the evening, the impressions of the day still went through my head and I closed the Llanero’s in my heart forever.

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: February 2020.

For more info, check our travel guide Casanare -the Colombian safari- Hotel needed in Yopal prior to your trip, check here the options.

Boat ride in the Llanos

Los Llanos Orientales, Travel Stories

On a boat trip in the Llanos, you can spot caimans, capybaras and turtles and fish for piranhas.

We were walking by the river, when Jeremiah said very quietly; “look next to you.” A few feet away there was a caiman in the water. We saw two more, lying motionless in the water for a very long time, ready to strike for passing prey!

Walk
Before the hike with Jeremiah began, we crossed the river by boat so we could hike on the other side of the river. Because the water is low in the dry season, they don’t turn the motor on. Jeremiah pushed sticks into the water to move forward. Later I learned that the water is as much as 2-3 meters higher in the rainy season.

Caimans
We were hiking by the river, when Jeremiah said very quietly; “look next to you.” A few feet away there was a caiman in the water. We saw two more, lying motionless in the water for a very long time, ready to strike for passing prey!


Natural Selection
I told Jeremiah that the landscape was even drier than I had imagined. He said this was the end of the dry season, hence the huge drought. During the “natural selection,” the older and weaker animals die in the harsh conditions. Other animals we saw on the hike included capybaras, turtles and a beautiful macaw.

Afternoon boat trip
Together with Dutch couple Ted and Anneke and their Colombian translator Gabriela, we took a boat trip down the river in the afternoon.

It was very relaxing to quietly observe the animals from the boat, such as agoutis (look like small capybaras), howler monkeys, many birds and wild pigs. A caiman was beautifully “posing” on a small beach. Because the river is quite narrow, we were able to observe the animals from up close.

Capybara family
We saw a family of capybaras whose little ones were drinking with the mother. Earlier we saw the babies running through the sand, soo cute! Because it is so dry and hot, the capybaras stay close to the river to cool off.

Fishing for piranhas
We stopped on a sandbar to fish for piranhas. I did not have much luck and fed the fish rather than catching them. So the piranha that was caught afterwards -with a very fat belly- was named after me -:)

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: February 2020.

Check out our travel guide Casanare -the Colombian safari– for more info. Need a hotel in Yopal prior to your trip? Then check here the options.

On Colombian safari: Hato La Aurora, Casanare

Los Llanos Orientales, Travel Stories

A wildlife safari in Colombia’s lowlands

At another spot we saw an anaconda about 5 meters long. The anaconda was easy to sport for guide Giovanny because the water was low. The animal lay curled up quietly in a corner…I didn’t think I would ever be able to spot an anaconda so close!

At 8:30 a.m. after breakfast, the safari began. I didn’t really know what to expect from a “Colombian safari,” but was looking forward to it immensely. We set off with a small group: Dutch couple Anneke and Ted with their Colombian translator Gabriela, guide Giovanny and me. Across the river, the jeep was already waiting.

Anteater
Pretty soon, we stopped at a tree. I looked in the branches to see if I could see any birds, but it turned out I had to look in the tree itself, in which a tamandua (tree anteater) was sleeping. Silently, we stood observing the little animal. It was such a cute sight, we could see its eyes and long snout very well. By the looks of it, the animal was used to people coming to observe, because he opened its eyes briefly and then continued sleeping.

Oasis
After this, we drove across the savannah landscape to a lagoon, to observe birds and walk. This was a dream spot that was like an oasis in the desert landscape. Pretty soon we saw three caimans at very close range and a lot of birds. Among these, the red ibis caught my eye the most.

Safari in Africa?
We walked toward a smaller lagoon, with lots of capybaras. With all those animals at the waterhole, it really looked like a safari in Africa now! Along the way we saw 3 little owls, which had made a hole under the ground. Too cute! We also saw birds of prey, who “watched over” the lagoon, wild horses and cows. Because of the countless birds, it was a twittering match!

Anaconda
At another spot we saw an anaconda about 5 meters long. The anaconda was easy for guide Giovanny to spot because the water was low. The animal lay curled up quietly in a corner…I didn’t think I would ever be able to spot an anaconda so close!

Siesta at Hato la Aurora
To escape the heat between 12 and 3, we spent that time at the main house of Hato la Aurora. We were welcomed to the ranch with a (miniscule) cup of coffee.

There were many little birds and also 2 macaws, so there was plenty to see. Furthermore, we could wander around and see the working tools of the Colombian cowboys. Due to a funeral in Yopal, only two people were working. The rest of the workers were in Yopal, so it was very quiet at the ranch.

In search of jaguars
After lunch and a wonderful siesta in the hammock, we continued the safari. Our mission: to look for jaguars! The day before, Giovanny had seen a mother with baby and of course we were hoping to spot them too! During a stop for a walk in the forest, guide Giovanny spotted jaguar tracks. The tracks were not fresh, but Giovanny decided that we were going to have a look in the forest anyway.

Giant anteater
We had to be very quiet so as not to startle the animals. At one point, we heard leaves cracking…. I felt that everyone was excited. At one point, we saw a giant anteater running through the forest. These are nocturnal animals, so we were lucky to see this special animal!

Countless birds
After this we went to another lagoon, again with countless species of birds. We nested here to spot the birds and wait to see if the jaguars did show themselves for a while. We were not as lucky as the safari goers the previous day, as we did not spot the jaguars. It didn’t matter much to us because the safari was more than successful anyway. We enjoyed the sound of all the birds and the tranquility for a while longer. With the sun setting, the view was absolutely stunning. In the dark we drove back to the river, for the crossing to the lodge. Here the crew was already waiting for us again with a tray with glasses of lemonade. 😊

Check out our travel guide Casanare – the Colombian safari- for more info. Need a hotel in Yopal before or after your safari? Then check here the options.

Colombian hospitality in Yopal, Colombia

Los Llanos Orientales, Travel Stories

The taxi ride I wanted to do in the afternoon turned out to be an extended sightseeing trip. Trainee Alejandro from the hotel, suggested to go with me and he had also already arranged a taxi. I was a little overwhelmed by all this well-meaning “arrangement,” but I decided to accept the offer.

Chilling in Yopal after safari trip

Before the trip, I didn’t have any expectations of Yopal. The town has few tourist attractions and other travelers I talked to only stayed there for a night on their way to a nature reserve. Still, I decided to stay there for two nights rather  than spending the night in cold Bogotá before my flight home. With a reservation for a hotel with sauna, Turkish bath and swimming pool in my pocket, that was by far the most relaxing option -:)

Typical lunch
Student Gabriela, whom I had met earlier in the trip, gave me some tips for Yopal. My plan was to relax at the hotel and take a cab to El Mirador and Historia en Piedras in the afternoon. The day went a little differently than planned. Since Gabriela herself had also arrived in Yopal by now, we went to lunch together at Restaurante La Mamona. Here we ate the local meat specialty Mamona. Gabriela is studying English and anthropology in Bogotá and was in the Llanos as a translator for a Dutch couple. We had interesting conversations over lunch. For example, Gabriela told me about her life as a student in Bogotá and her roots in the Llanos.

Spontaneous city tour
After lunch, Gabriela spontaneously gave me a tour of the city. We started at the square and the white church Catedral San José de Yopal. After this we wanted to go to the city’s small museum, but it turned out to be closed on Saturdays. At the monument of the Llaneros, Escultor Llanero, there were posters of several famous Llaneros and Llaneras on display.

Well-meaning “arrangement”
The taxi ride I planned to take in the afternoon turned out to be an extended sightseeing trip. Trainee Javier from hotel Casa Morales, was afraid that the taxi driver would charge me too much, as a “solo traveler.” Therefore, he suggested to go with me. He had also already arranged another driver. Ms. Aurora, who was an acquaintance of the hotel, would drive us around. Cheaper than a regular taxi driver of course -:) I was a little overwhelmed by all this well-meant “arrangement,” but decided to accept the offer.

Sightseeing trip
Aurora drove us first to Historia and Piedras, but it turned out to be closed. Then we headed for the Mirador on the other side of town. On the way we would stop at Doña Barbara restaurant, the restaurant that is said to have the best arepas in Yopal.

The best arepas in Yopal
Restaurante Doña Barbara turned out to be a very cozy place. We had a coconut lemonade there and ate cheese arepas, which totally lived up to their reputation. I never had such delicious, well-filled arepas! Alejandro explained that later in the year, the Garzas (herons) come to the plains in front of the restaurant, to breed. As far as you can see then, there are birds and people come here especially to enjoy the view from a special platform. The restaurant is then a hot spot with stalls selling all kinds of food.

The Flintstones
On the way to the Mirador, we stopped at restaurante Mozarella Gourmet, a theme restaurant about the Flintstones. Too funny!

Viewpoint
From the Mirador de La Virgen with the statue la Virgen, we looked out on the lights of Yopal. It was bustling with people who came for the view and athletes walking up and down the hill. Fruit, drinks and (of course) arepas were being sold. I’m sure it must also be beautiful during the day to look out over the plains and mountains. After our visit to the Mirador, we were in the mood for a beer and headed back toward town.

Bogotá Beer Company
At the Bogotá Beer Company on the la T nightlife strip , we enjoyed a beer and exchanged WhatsApp numbers. I said goodbye with a promise to bring Dutch cheese on my next visit to Colombia.

Hospitality
Yopal had surprised me: there was enough to do to keep yourself entertained for a day and the people were super nice. These people made the difference for me between a nice trip and a great trip!

 

Written by Jeanette
Travel date: February 2020.

Want to know more about a Colombian safari from Yopal? Check out here for more info.

Tour by motorcycle in Minca

Travel Stories

On the back of the motorcycle past waterfalls and coffee incas

The first few miles on the bike went smoothly and I was relaxed. As the road got worse with deep holes, mud puddles and rocks, I got a little anxious. Chauffeur Ney manoeuvred past these “obstacles” flawlessly, so I trusted all would be okay.

$Bucket list
When I went to Minca, I had several things on my wish list: I wanted to see the Marinka waterfall, do a cocoa tour and chill in “the biggest hammocks in the world” at Casa Elemento.

Mototaxi for a day
Marinka and Casa Elemento were easy to combine, but for the cocoa tour I had to be at finca La Candelaria, in the opposite direction. Not a convenient combination! Sonia, the employee of the hotel, advised me to hire a moto taxi, which could take me everywhere in 1 day. To be honest, I was not immediately enthusiastic about the idea of sitting on the back of a motorcycle for so long. My poor back, I thought! When Sonia said she knew a good driver and that the moto tour was very safe -and quite comfortable-, I changed my mind.

Route
Driver Ney came to pick me up and we agreed on this route:

  • Cascada de Marinka
  • Casa Elemento
  • Mirador los Pinos
  • Coffee finca la Victoria
  • Pozo Azul
  • Finca La Candelaria

When I had installed myself on the back of the bike, I felt like a small child about to embark on a big adventure -:) The first few miles on the bike went smoothly and I sat relaxed on the motor bike, when looking around. As the road got worse with deep holes, mud puddles and rocks, I got a little anxious. Driver Ney manoeuvred past these obstacles flawlessly, so I trusted it would be okay.

Cascada de Marinka
On the way to Cascada de Marinka, we saw quite a few tourists walking. We got there around 9 a.m. and were the first visitors. It was nice to chill for a while in the giant hammock near the restaurant. From there you have a nice view of the waterfall.

Giant hammocks
After this, the trip went to Casa Elemento, high in the mountains above Minca. At first my heart almost skipped a beat when I saw the precipices next to me. When I decided not to look beside me anymore but forward, things got a lot better and I really started to like riding a motorcycle.


At Casa Elemento, I bought a wristband for COP10,000 / $2.50. This allowed me to stay as long as I wanted and included a drink. I “tested” the various hammocks and enjoyed the view. Meanwhile, Ney revealed himself as a real (private) photographer!

Mirador los Pinos
After Casa Elemento, we stopped at Mirador los Pinos, for a nice view of Santa Marta and the coast.

Pozo Azul
Pozo Azul was busy when we were there. Ney told us that this is a popular spot with locals and day tourists from Santa Marta. Because of the cold water, it was not enticing for me to swim at the falls, not getting beyond paddling!

Coffee Finca la Victoria
When we drove up to the coffee finca, there was a wonderful smell; the freshness of the rainforest mixed with the aroma of coffee…mmm! We looked around and had a cup of coffee with homemade cookies. A coffee tour was about to start, but I skipped it. I felt more like jumping on the back of the motor bike after the coffee and driving on to finca la Candelaria for the cacao tour. Since this was still quite a long ride, we made a stop at café Minca, for lunch.

Finca la Candelaria
Arriving at the entrance to la Candelaria, we had to leave the bike and walk up to the finca, through coffee and cocoa plantations.

Chocotour
Venezuelan refugee Saddam was my guide. He came to Colombia in 2018 and supports his family in Venezuela with his income as a guide. We started the tour at the beginning of the plantation, where I got to see the flower of the cacao bean. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a tour of the plantation itself. After this, Saddam got to work making chocolate milk -from scratch-. He talked passionately about cocoa and showed how the beans are roasted, shelled, melted and mixed with water and milk.

Choco mask
While tasting the chocolate milk, I got a facial mask made of cocoa. My skin felt soft and like new. Saddam explained that the fats of the cacao are the reason that your skin feels like a baby skin after the mask. Including choco mask, the tour took 40 minutes. Afterwards, we enjoyed sitting on the terrace, when it started to pour and thunder. 

Slippery descent
I enjoyed the freshness of the rain. When it had cleared up, we began the “descent” downhill. That was a bit of a challenge because everything had gotten slippery. Once back on the bike, Ney stopped a few times along the way. We had to walk some parts because it was too slippery on the road. In “stages”, we finally got back on the main road and I was dropped off at the hotel. I spent the rest of the day thinking about this amazing adventure!

 

Written by Jeanette
Travel date September 2019

  • This private tour with Minca Tours costs COP120,000 / $33 and did not include lunch, drinks, admission and cocoa tour.
  • Check out more tours in Minca
  • View our travel guide Minca for more info and tips
  • Check out our eco-hotel tip for Minca and an insiders tip for a stay in a nature reserve where rescued animals are taken care of.
  • Update: meanwhile, Casa Elemento has been taken over by another owner. The hostel has been renovated and reopened under the name Hostal Sierra Minca.

Updated september 2024

Behind the scenes at Mercado Bazurto

Cartagena and Caribbean coast, Travel Stories

Cartagena off the beaten path

During the tour, interaction was key: We learned to dance a few steps to Champeta music, while attracting a lot of attention from the locals -:) Afterwards, we were able to cool off with a Costeñita beer and chat with the CD salesman. We even got to take home a CD of Champeta music.

 

The tour to Mercado Bazurto appealed to us because it would allow us to see Cartagena outside the tourist highlights. We wanted to wander around this local market and experience the daily “hustle and bustle.”

The tour
The guide picked us up at the hotel in Getsemaní, after which we walked to the other participants’ hotel and boarded the local bus together. At a shopping mall, a final sanitary stop was made before we walked toward the market. The guide told us about the former Chinese neighborhood in which the market is located. At a store, she bought bottles of water, which would later be used to make fruit smoothies.

Strong stomach
We learned the story behind the vendors and saw the conditions people have to work in: the heat, puddles of dirty water, garbage and a meat and fish market, which requires a strong stomach.

Pans and more…
The boss of the metal workshop proudly showed us his workshop and explained that his store fulfills an important function. Among other things, people can come to him to have pans repaired. A little further on, “Runner” made advertising banners and he also made one especially for us. We were allowed to make up the text ourselves.

Dancing to Champeta music
During the tour, interaction was key: we learned a few steps dancing to Champeta music, while attracting a lot of attention from the locals. Actually, we were the real attraction on the market hahaha. After the dancing, we were able to cool off with a (miniscule) Costeñita beer and chat with the CD seller. We were even given a CD of Champeta music to take home.

Tropical fruit
We sampled delicious fruit smoothies and tropical fruits such as Lulo and Guanabana. We feasted our eyes on the market with spices, clothing, household items and fish and meat.

Restaurante Cecilia’s
At the end of the tour, it was time for lunch at Cecilia’s. Cecilia’s has become famous because culinary TV personality Anthony Boudain once filmed here for his TV show. We ate specialties of the coastal region: Sopa de mote, (soup with chunks of cheese) Pescado con arroz de coco, (fish with coconut rice) and fried banana.

Surprise
After the heat at the market, it was a surprise that we did not have to walk back to the bus stop, but were picked up by a minivan. In the air conditioning we were able to let the experiences of the day sink in, before we were dropped off near our hotel.

Information and tips

  • We found it helpful to visit Mercado Bazurto with a local guide. The market is hectic and so big that it’s easy to get lost if you don’t know your way around. Plus, with a guide, you can easily get into conversation with the people in the market.
  • There are several tour operators that offer this tour. On this trip to Cartagena, we did the tour with Cartagena Insider by FEM. Part of the proceeds go to charity, such as education projects.
  • We were hesitant about this tour beforehand, regarding the hygiene of the market. After having experience the tour, it turned out to be unnecessary. The guide bought bottles of water for the fruit smoothies and the small restaurant where we ate was fine.
  • Wear shoes instead of flip flops, due to the puddles of (dirty) water
  • Do you want to do this too? Book the Mercado Bazurto tour here

Written by Jeanette
Travel date September 2019

Want to know more about Cartagena? Then check out our Cartagena travel guide here . Check here the nicest hostels and hostels in Cartagena.