El Poblado is the most popular neighborhood in Medellín. For us, too, it was now the second time we had been there. And yet much was still unknown to us about this tourist area. More than Lleras park, the Milla de Oro and Parque El Poblado we did not really know. About the origins of El Poblado, we had never thought further. The (fairly new) free El Poblado tour, was therefore a godsend to learn more about Medellín’s most popular neighborhood.

We scheduled the tour on our first day in El Poblado. After registering ourselves through Beyond Colombia’s website and receiving a confirmation via email 1 day before the tour, we reported to Parque Poblado at 4 p.m. We were ready to go.

We were lucky because along with the two of us, there was only 1 other participant for the tour in English. The group for the Spanish-language tour was large, with a large group of tourists from Argentina. Together with our guide Natalia and Heather, we started the tour. Heather was an American, who traveled the world by motorcycle and was now staying in Medellín for a while to get her motorcycle repaired. Before leaving, we paused at the monument honoring Medellín’s first colonial settlement, founded in 1616 on the site where Parque El Poblado is today.

We liked not having to walk in a “herd” behind our guide, which also allowed us to stay a little longer at a particular stop. Like at the first stop, a micro beer brewery, just around the corner from Parque El Poblado. Here they brew beers with unusual flavors, such as coconut and Jack daniels whiskey. After Natalia delighted us with the explanation of the different beer flavors, she wanted to walk through, but of course we put a stop to that. Not leaving without tasting a beer! And that just before the “reclamation”….In connection with the elections the next day, no alcohol was allowed to be served from 6 p.m. onwards. So we were just in time -:)

With our beer in hand, we walked on to the Calle 10 and stopped at a beautiful mural titled Medallo, “code name” among graffiti artists for Medellín.

After this, we walked on to a beautiful vantage point in El parque de la Bailarina, in the Astorga neighborhood.

The park is like an oasis in the city and is home to as many as 30 species of birds, including the Yellow-winged Macaw. Despite the park’s beauty, it has a tragic history. The park is dedicated to Isabel Cristina Restrepo Cárdenas, the best dancer in Medellín’s classical ballet, who in 2008 was was murdered.

Near the park, we stopped at Colombia’s only restaurant with a Michelin star; El Cielo. Special for us, because we really wanted to eat here, but couldn’t get a table. Restaurant el Cielo is fully booked months in advance!

We walked on to Lleras park and it was lovely to walk among all that greenery, with vantage points on streams and rivers.

There was even a coffee plant to be seen in all that greenery.

We made a break at a statue of Mary, where Natalia explained to us why statues of Mary were placed in Medellín, in places such as parks and subway stations. During the drug conflict, this was done to counter violence. How could a statue of the Virgin Mary do that? The reasoning behind this is that even the biggest criminal loves his mother. By placing images of the “mother of all mothers,” there would be less violence in these places!

At the vía Primavera, Natalia showed us some stores, with locally made clothes. She also made some recommendations for the best coffee (Cafe Pergamino) and the best ice cream in Medellín (Amor Acuyá). Such a tasty ice cream was very tempting, but due to the long line, we walked on anyway.

At the actual (lleras) park that is currently being renovated, Natalia explained that -because of the renovation- the locals’ nightlife has largely moved to the vía Provenza.

However, we still found it very lively and cozy in Lleras park with live music and lots of restaurants and cafes.

At the end of the free El Poblado tour, Natalia showed us some photos of the old El Poblado, before it was filled with high-rise buildings for rich Colombians in the 1970s and drug lord Escobar laundered his money there. What a difference!

After giving Natalia a (well-deserved) tip, everyone went their separate ways and we decided to have another drink at the Envy Rooftop Bar in the Charlee hotel. The view there was said to be amazing and yes it was indeed!

With a coconut lemonade (no piña colada because of prohibition -:)) we toasted to el Poblado and were happy and fulfilled after the tour. Learned a lot about the (not always beautiful) history of El Poblado and got many tips for the nicest places to eat and drink. What a wonderful first day of our stay in Medellín!