During my trip to the hotel Termales del Ruiz in the coffee region, I did not want to miss the opportunity to visit Los Nevados National Park, “home to” the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima and Nevado del Santa Isabel, whose glacier can be climbed.

Now I do have an adventurous spirit, but trekking to a glacier, is not my thing. For that matter, I wouldn’t have the stamina to embark on such an (icy) adventure either!

A car ride in the park, therefore, seemed like the perfect, alternative option for me to be able to see something of the park. The hotel arranged a private trip for me with Edoardo, a retired employee of Los Nevados National park. For this busy bee, sitting still is not an option, which is why he and his wife also run their own hostel. An excellent driver and conversation partner for the trip it seemed to me! He did not speak English, so I could practice my Spanish enough during the trip.

Edoardo came to pick me up at the appointed time and we drove early to the Brisas entrance of Los Nevados national park, an 8 km drive.

Here began a rather complicated registration procedure, as I had to pay at 3 different counters: for the car, for the guide in the park and for the mandatory insurance. After this I was given a green wristband and after the whole payment procedure, there followed a mandatory film and briefing about the park.

This was held in a stone cold room, so I was glad when the car ride could finally begin! The guide led the way with his own car and we, along with a few other cars, drove -in the fog- after the guide.

During the briefing, it had been explained to us, that during the 5 km ride, we would pass several ecosystems. At the first stop Aguacerales, at 4160 meters, we saw another beautiful green landscape.

After this, the route gradually went up and the landscape changed to the Páramo and super Páramo landscape, with mostly rocks and sand. Characteristic of the Páramo, are the unusual Frailejones trees, which can reach 12 meters in height.

During each stop, the Ecosistemas guide gave a passionate explanation of the flora and fauna of the area. After this, we were able to walk around a bit and take pictures of the changing vegetation, such as here at the Parador at 4290 meters.

At the third stop at the Valles Lunares -the name says it-, there was nothing more to see than a lunar landscape.

After this we left for our final stop, the Valle de Tumbas, at 4450 meters. Here the guide told us the gruesome story of the eruption of volcano Nevado del Ruiz in 1985. This disaster devastated the town of Armero, killing more than 25,000 people.

Due to volcanic activity, a code yellow was in effect during our visit and the viewpoint at Nevado del Ruiz (5100 meters) was closed. Cameras, among others, are closely monitoring the situation.

At the Valle de Tumbas, the traces of the lava flows were still clearly visible. Very impressive to stand here and know what tragedy had occurred -:( Everyone in the group was really silent for a moment. After the last stop, the small “caravan” left again for the exit.

After the car tour, Edoardo asked if I was hungry and I certainly was! Mountain air makes one hungry and just the thought of a nice bowl of hot soup made my mouth water. Edoardo told me that his wife Sandra Patricia cooks the most delicious dishes for guests from the hostel and day-trippers who go to Los Nevados National Park. I was up for that, but first I was given a cup of tea with coca leaves, which Edoardo said was the perfect remedy for altitude sickness.

Not much later, I was sitting behind a steaming bowl of soup. This was followed by tasty fish (my favorite trucha= trout) and a nice dessert.

After this delicious meal that cost less than 6 euros converted, proud Edoardo -together with his granddaughter- gave me a tour of the hostel called Mirador del Kumanday.

After a “photo shoot,” it was time to head back to hotel Termales del Ruiz. Since the granddaughter had never been to the hotel before, it was my turn for a tour of the thermal baths. As a surprise, I bought her some chocolate chocolates at the hotel, which she chewed up gratefully.

When I reconnected with Edoardo six months later, he told me that his hostel had now expanded to include a cabaña -with a view of the volcano- aptly named El Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion).

Curious about this adventurous accommodation? Check the facebook page of Glamping Leon Dormido.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019