During my trip to the hotel Termales del Ruiz in the coffee region, I did not want to miss the opportunity to visit Los Nevados National Park, “home to” the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima and Nevado del Santa Isabel, whose glacier can be climbed.

Now I do have an adventurous spirit, but trekking to a glacier, is not my thing. For that matter, I wouldn’t have the guts to embark on such an (icy) adventure either!

A car ride in the park, seemed like the perfect, alternative option for me to see something of the park. The hotel arranged a private trip for me with Edoardo, a retired employee of Los Nevados National park. For this busy bee, sitting still is not an option, which is why he and his wife also run their own hostel. Edoardo turned out to be an excellent driver and conversation partner for the trip. He did not speak English, so I could practice my Spanish enough during the trip.

Edoardo came to pick me up in the early morning and we drove to the Brisas entrance of Los Nevados national park, an 8 km drive.

Here began a rather complicated registration procedure, as I had to pay at 3 different counters: for the car, for the guide in the park and for the mandatory insurance. After this I was given a green wristband and after the whole payment procedure, there followed a mandatory movie and briefing about the park.

This was held in a ice cold room, so I was glad when the car ride could finally begin! The guide led the way with his own car and we, along with a few other cars, drove behind the guide, in the fog.

During the briefing, it was explained to us that we would pass several ecosystems during the 5km drive. At the first stop, Aguacerales, at 4160 meters, we saw a beautiful green landscape.

After this, the road gradually went up and the landscape changed to the Páramo and super Páramo landscape, with mostly rocks and sand. Characteristic of the Páramo, are the unusual Frailejones trees, which can reach 12 meters in height.

During each stop, the Ecosistemas guide gave a passionate explanation of the flora and fauna of the area. After this, we were able to walk around a bit and take pictures of the changing vegetation, such as here at the Parador at 4290 meters.

At the third stop at the Valles Lunares -the name says it all-, there was nothing more to see than a lunar landscape.

After this, we left for our final stop, the Valle de Tumbas, on 4450 meters. Here the guide told us the terrifying story of the eruption of volcano Nevado del Ruiz in 1985. This disaster devastated the town of Armero, killing more than 25,000 people.

Due to volcanic activity, a code yellow was in effect during our visit and the viewpoint at Nevado del Ruiz (5100 meters) was closed. Cameras in the park were closely monitoring the situation.

At the Valle de Tumbas, the traces of the lava flows were still clearly visible. It was very impressive to stand here and know which tragedy had occurred -:( Everyone in the group was very silent for a moment. After the last stop, the small “caravan” left again for the exit.

After the car tour, Edoardo asked if I was hungry and I certainly was! Mountain air makes hungry and just the thought of a nice bowl of hot soup was mouth watering. Edoardo told me that his wife Sandra Patricia cooks the most delicious dishes for guests from the hostel and day-trippers who go to Los Nevados National Park. I was more than ready for that home cooked meal, but first Edoardo gave me a cup of tea with coca leaves, which Edoardo said was the perfect remedy for altitude sickness.

Not much later, I was sitting behind a steaming bowl of soup, followed by a tasty fish (my favorite: trucha= trout) and a nice dessert.

After this delicious meal that cost less than 7 dollars, Edoardo -together with his granddaughter- gave me a tour of the hostel called Mirador del Kumanday.

After a “photo shoot,” it was time to head back to hotel Termales del Ruiz. Since the granddaughter had never been to the hotel before, it was my turn for a tour of the hot springs. As a surprise, I bought her some chocolates at the hotel, which she enjoyed very much. 

When I reconnected with Edoardo six months later, he told me that his hostel had now expanded with a cabaña -with a view of the volcano- named El Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion).

Curious about this adventurous accommodation? Check their facebook page here: Glamping Leon Dormido.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019