On tour in Los Nevados National Park

A drive through the various ecosystems of Los Nevados National Park

During my trip to the hotel Termales del Ruiz in the coffee region, I did not want to miss the opportunity to visit Los Nevados National Park, “home to” the still active volcano Nevado del Ruiz, Nevado del Tolima and Nevado del Santa Isabel, whose glacier can be climbed.

Now I do have an adventurous spirit, but trekking to a glacier, is not my thing. By the way, I wouldn’t have the stamina to embark on such an (icy) adventure either!

A car ride in the park, therefore, seemed like the perfect, alternative option to be able to see something of the park. The hotel arranged a private trip for me with Edoardo, a retired employee of Los Nevados National park. For this busy bee, sitting still is not an option, which is why he and his wife also run their own hostel. An excellent driver and interlocutor for the trip it seemed to me! English he did not speak, so I could practice my Spanish enough during the trip.

Edoardo came to pick me up at the appointed time and we drove early to the Brisas entrance of Los Nevados national park, an 8 km drive.

Here began a rather complicated registration procedure, as I had to pay at 3 different counters: for the car, for the guide in the park and for the mandatory insurance. After this I was given a green wristband and after the whole payment procedure, there followed a mandatory film and briefing about the park.

This was held in a stone cold room, so I was glad when the car ride could finally begin! The guide led the way with his own car and we, along with a few other cars, drove -in the fog- after the guide.

During the briefing, it had been explained to us, that during the 5 km ride, we would pass several ecosystems. At the first stop Aguacerales, at 4160 meters, we saw another beautiful green landscape.

After this, the route gradually went up and the landscape changed to the Páramo and super Páramo landscape, with mostly rocks and sand. Characteristic of the Páramo, are the unusual Frailejones trees, which can reach 12 meters in height.

During each stop, the Ecosistemas guide gave a passionate explanation of the flora and fauna of the area. After this, we were able to walk around a bit and take pictures of the changing vegetation, such as here at the Parador at 4290 meters.

At the third stop at the
Valles Lunares
-the name says it-, there was nothing more to see than a lunar landscape.

After this we left for our final stop, the
Valle de Tumbas
, at 4450 meters. Here the guide told us the gruesome story of the 1985 eruption of volcano Nevado del Ruiz. This disaster devastated the town of Armero, killing more than 25,000 people.

Due to volcanic activity, a code yellow was in effect during our visit and the viewpoint at Nevado del Ruiz (5100 meters) was closed. Cameras, among others, are being used to closely monitor the situation.

At the Valle de Tumbas, the traces of lava flows were still clearly visible. Very impressive to stand here and know what tragedy had occurred -:( Everyone in the group was really quiet for a moment. After the last stop, the little “caravan” left again for the exit.

After the car tour, Edoardo asked if I was hungry and I certainly was! Mountain air makes one hungry and just the thought of a nice bowl of hot soup made my mouth water. Edoardo told me that his wife Sandra Patricia cooks the most delicious dishes for guests from the hostel and day-trippers going to Los Nevados National park. I was up for that, but first I was given a cup of tea with coca leaves, the perfect remedy for altitude sickness according to Edoardo.

Not much later, I was sitting behind a steaming bowl of soup. This was followed by tasty fish (my favorite trucha= trout) and a nice dessert.

After this delicious meal that cost less than 6 euros converted, proud Edoardo -together with his granddaughter- gave me a tour of the hostel called Mirador del Kumanday.

After a “photo shoot,” it was time to return to hotel Termales del Ruiz. Since the granddaughter had never been to the hotel before, it was my turn for a tour of the thermal pools. As a surprise, I bought her some chocolate chocolates at the hotel, which she ate gratefully.

When I reconnected with Edoardo six months later, he told me that his hostel had now expanded to include a cabaña -with a view of the volcano- aptly named El Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion).

Curious about this adventurous accommodation? Then check the facebook page of
Glamping Leon Dormido
.

Written by Jeanette
Travel period: March 2019

#Colombia tips

Information (Updated: August 2023)

  • The Brisas entrance is a 1.5h-2h drive from Manizales and 8km from hotel Termales del Ruiz. There is no public transportation to the park, you get there by your own or private transport
  • Open daily from 8 a.m.-4 p.m. By 3:30 p.m., all visitors must have left the park
  • The car route takes 2-3 hours including stops. Are you prone to altitude sickness? Then drive with the windows slightly open, it makes a difference!
  • Guide to the park is required. For safety reasons, the rule is applied, that at least 1 guide for every 2 cars enters the park
  • Prices (2023): Park entrance COP54,000 pp, car COP8000, guide COP15000, insurance COP5000. Bring an id with you for registration
  • You have the greatest chance of good weather in the dry season from mid-Dec to late February and July, August
  • During this ride, there is no access to Nevado del Ruiz. You can’t see snow from this entrance and you can’t do hikes or treks. Follow the link for
    treks to the glaciers
    in los Nevados National park,
  • Want to know more about the park? Then check the

    facebook page Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados

  • Before planning a trip, check the current status of the active volcano Nevado del Ruiz. If there is increased activity, the park is closed.

Movie Tip
The impressive film Armero, tells the story of Omaira, who experienced and survived the volcanic eruption. The film adaptation of the disaster can be seen on Netflix (Spanish, with English subtitles). Watch the trailer here.

Read the travelogue about our
off the beaten track trip to hotel Termales del Ruiz.

Check out our
travel guide Coffee Triangle
for more information on Colombia’s coffee region. If you travel on from the coffee region to Jardín or Medellín, check out our
travel guide Medellín and surroundings.

ToColombia