Spectacular rock formations in the desierto de la Tatacoa
The Tatacoa Desert (desierto de la Tatacoa) in the department of Huila is one of the two deserts of Colombia. The other desert is located in La Guajira on the north coast. Technically, Tatacoa is not a desert, but a dry tropical forest, where wind and rain have created bizarre shapes in the soil. The result of this are the spectacular rock formations: one of the most “instagrammable” locations in South Colombia!
Especially during sunrise or sunset, the view is beautiful, when the colors are even more impressive.
The nearest major city is Neiva, 350 kilometers south of Bogotá, a city of some 365,000 people. Travelers who tour Colombia often combine a visit to the Tatacoa desert with a stay in Salento in the coffee triangle, Cali, San Agustín and Popayán (See roundtrip no. 7 of these travel routes.)
In this travel guide you will find more information about the two sections of the Tatacoa Desert, the trails, how to get there and our tips for the best places to sleep in and around Tatacoa.
The red and gray desert
The Tatacoa desert is 330 km large and there are two sections: the red desert (El Cuzco) and the gray desert (Los Hoyos). In both sections you can hike on a trail with or without a guide. The trails are well marked, but if you want to learn more about Tatacoa’s ecosystem, a hike with a local guide is recommended.
On hikes you can see cacti, birds, curious goats and sometimes even snakes. This is also where the name comes from, as Tatacoa means rattlesnake! For transportation between the red and gray deserts, you can take a tuktuk. If you don’t mind cycling in tropical temperatures, there are also bicycles for rent.
The red desert (El Cuzco)
Red Desert is the most popular, due to its central location close to hotels and hostels. The hiking trail starts right near the observatory. The hike takes about 1.5 hours and is mostly over flat terrain. At the viewpoints Mirador Laberinto and Mirador el Cuzco you can enjoy the surreal landscape.
The gray desert (los Hoyos)
8 kilometers away, about 20 minutes away by tuk-tuk, lies the -less visited- Gray Desert, which is often compared to a lunar landscape. The landscape of the gray desert may seem less iconic than that of the Red Desert, yet it too is worth a visit. The trail begins at Estadero Los Hoyos and ends at the Piscina Mineral, an artificial pool.
Stargazing
A must in the Tatacoa Desert is stargazing at the observatory. The night sky in Tatacoa is extra bright. Thanks to its remote location and few lights, there is hardly any light pollution, making Tatacoa the perfect place for stargazing. At night, you can also join a guided tour and use the observatory’s telescopes. You have to be a little lucky, though, because if it’s cloudy, the tour won’t take place.
Photo: biohotel tatacoa qji
Here’s how to plan your trip to Tatacoa
How to get there
How do you get to the Tatacoa Desert?
If you go to the Tatacoa Desert, you must travel through Neiva. In Neiva, you then take a truck from Coomotor to Villavieja (approx. 1 hour), this is the last village before the Tatacoa desert. You can choose to spend the night in a hotel or hostel in Villavieja, or travel on (by tuk tuk/15 min) to the Tatacoa Desert.
How to get to Neiva?
By Plane
The most comfortable way is to fly from Bogotá (Latam airlines and Avianca (1h), from $75. From Cali, Pereira, Medellín and Cartagena there are flights with stopover (Avianca, Easy Fly (4-5h) and there is a flight with stopover from Santa Marta (6h)
By bus, from:
- Bogotá: Salitre station. (6u): Coomotor, Taxis verdes, Cootranshuila from $15.
- Cali (9h): Cootranshuila, Bolivariano, Coomotor, Palmira, from $20.
- Salento: for this you must first go to Armenia. A ticket costs $2 and the ride takes 50 min. After this you take the bus to Neiva ( 7u). Tickets from Coomotor start at $19.
With an organized tour
If you want to go to the Tatacoa Desert from Bogotá or Neiva, you can also go on an organized tour. Here you will find options for a tour from Bogotá and a tour with a local from Neiva
Climate and best time to travel
You can visit the Tatacoa Desert year-round, but keep in mind that it is one of the hottest places in Colombia. It is hot and dry and the temperature can reach 35-40 degrees Celcius. The sun is very bright, which is why it is recommended to do the hikes early in the morning or before sunset. June and July see the highest temperatures. April/May and October/November have the highest rainfall.
Where to stay in the Tatacoa Desert?
#ToColombia tips
Tip #1
If you’re going to visit Tatacoa, we recommend staying 2-3 nights so you can do both trails and chill out at the hotel with pool in the heat of the day. In Villavieja you will find the largest choice of hotels and hostels. Some more luxurious accommodations can also be found here.
Tip #2
You can also spend a night in the desert itself. The advantage is that you can then start your hike extra early to avoid the greatest heat. Also, you can then join a tour at the observatory in the evening and stargaze through the observatory’s telescopes (if it is not cloudy). Accommodations are usually basic and you should note that electricity and wifi are limited in the desert. Making a reservation over the Internet usually does not work, but if you go without a reservation, there is usually still room (if you go outside the busy Colombian holidays).
Tip #3
Two hostels in the Red Desert are hostal noches de Saturno 400 meters from observatório astronomico in red desert. There are rooms and camping and the hostal has a pool and restaurant. Estadero Doña Lilla is located next to the observatory, where you can sleep in a tent, hammock or hut.
€ price range up to €50
€€ price range €50 – €75
€€€ price range above €75
Villavieja
€€
- Biohotel Tatacoa Qji opposite the observatory with its own restaurant and swimming pool
- Hotel colonial Villavieja, with pool and air conditioning!
- Mana Star Lounge hotel
- Payande-Tatacoa
Neiva
Practical info A-Z
Check here practical information for a trip to the Tatacoa Desert. Can you use a pin? What about internet? What should I bring with me? Here you will find this information and useful tips for your stay in the Tatacoa Desert.
Cash withdrawals
Not all ATMs work in Villavieja, so take the safe bet and pin in Bogotá or Neiva.
Packing List
- Anti mosquito spray
- Sunscreen
- Bring plenty of water and snacks because there is not much to buy in Tatacoa.Villavieja is the last stop before Tatacoa for shopping
- Cap or hat
- Warm clothes, as it cools off considerably in the evening
- Flashlight
- Closed shoes
- Powerbank
- Charged phone with Mapps me app for hiking trails
- Cash
Safety
Tatacoa is considered safe. The locals are friendly and want to please the tourists. Do keep in mind the limited electricity in the desert and bring a flashlight.
Wifi and telephone
Electricity and wifi are limited in the desert. Phone coverage is also limited.
